Ideal for DIY or shop installation. The hardest part was finding and accessing my car's firewall, but it depends on the car. For the 12v lead I had to crimp the connector to connect it to the battery - I used a spade type but a ring type would work too. I used a factory head unit and didn't need a line out converter. I attached the device to the carpet under the passenger seat with Velcro. I used two quarter inch split wires to hide the colored wires, that ran under the carpet - you could use half an inch, but that might be too cumbersome. All cables went under the upholstery on the passenger side. I used an inch of foam to level the unit because half of it sits on top of the vent. It appears clean with minimal design accents. It's a durable aluminum box with a rubberized matte finish. In total it took me about 6 hours to figure out if this thing would fit, how to connect it to my head unit and how to temporarily remove auto components to complete the installation. I used T-shape radio splicers (12-22 gauge kit). Crimping pliers for T-distributors and ferrules. Wire stripper for stripping car battery cables, audio cables and ignition switch cables. Scissors, to cut the cleft loom. Panel removal tools. Ratchet Set - For my car I used a 1/4" ratchet, 8mm and 10mm sockets and an 8" extension. A screwdriver for the small screws that attach the wire harness to the subwoofer. Velcro if you don't plan to drill floor panels. Toyota Highlander xle, without JBL, 2014.
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