This is the MAF sensor for my 2000 Buick Regal GS. The symptoms were severe idle fluctuations under light braking and low speeds, and idle fluctuations when stopping. Giving him gas helps. Stopped once. Code P0102 issued. I cleaned the sensor and it worked for a couple of weeks then same problem. I cleaned it again, it was fine for a week then the same problem. Cleaned again - didn't help. (Although the CRC MAF cleaner is great. Buy it for $7 and try it before paying $170.) Using an OBD2 Wi-Fi scanner and my iPhone, I saw when he started misbehaving constantly that the old sensor is dying - I'd get a properly jagged but mostly stable line (0.01 grams per second resolution) but then it's just flat for a while. Squeezing the accelerator will usually cause the correct reading to come back up and then stop working again. Note. You will need a T20 Torx bit (Torx center hole). They are available in any decent set of torx bits, torx sockets or security bits. - Do not throw away old fasteners, THIS DOES NOT SUPPLY WITH FASTENERS. You must reuse them. I'd give that a half star, but Amazon won't let me give it a half star - This exchange is *trivial*, anyone with a screwdriver can do it. Remove the cosmetic shield if you have one (half inch socket I assume); detach it from the T20, remove the electrical connector; reinstall carefully - never touch the contacts. They are extremely fragile. Don't think you can clean them with your fingers. - Cheap aftermarket MAF sensors will make your life worse. Either buy this part or at least buy a good aftermarket sensor. It is better to work with a disconnected air mass meter than with a defective air mass meter. The lack of a sensor means less MPG and performance. A bad sensor means stalling and terrible idling.
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