Review on 🔲 Silverlite 4" PCB Size, 5.39" Overall Size LED Light Engine: 17W, 3000K, 1200LM, Dimmable - Perfect for Ceiling Flush Light, Ceiling Fan, Pendant, Lantern, Garden! UL/ES/JA8 Certified by Brittney Reynolds

December 21, 2016 I paid $13.99 for the 4 inch model 17W 3000K (warm color temperature). From the options printed on the board I can see that a variety of other timings were at least planned if not ever mass produced. I would like to be able to buy it in 5000K, my preferred daylight color temperature. I am very impressed with this "alternator". This is the perfect upgrade for any ceiling light you'd like to keep but want to bring into the LED era. This is an instant design. There is practically no delay between switching on and full light output. I believe the inrush current is significant, but I don't have the right tools (yet!) to measure the inrush current. The build quality is just great. If you look closely at the circuit board, this is one of the best LED lights I've seen. Everything is clean, all surface mount components line up very well with the pads on the PCB and the large capacitors are rated for 105C. There is basically NO flickering, which is confirmed by my Sony "patented" process with 59.94 fps. I haven't tested the dimming capabilities, so I can't vouch for flicker (if any) at lower input voltages. I used a special meter to measure the electrical properties of the module I received. Here's what I measured at 122VAC line voltage: Power Consumed: 18.7W Current: 164mA Power Factor: over 0.9 (excellent!) This lightweight motor consists of two parts. The printed circuit board (PCB) is round in shape and 100 mm (3-15/16 in) in diameter, which is close enough to the nominal 4 in. The circuit board is attached to the larger metal piece behind it with two small machine screws, dimensions: 4-7/16" (113 mm) in the smaller dimension 5-⅜" (137 mm) in the larger base plate. I would recommend removing the backplate ONLY if you are attaching the board directly to a good heatsink. Your heatsink needs to be PERFECTLY flat and you also need to use thermal paste. Of course, instead of buying this "light engine” you could just screw in an LED light bulb, but incandescent bulbs are not ideal for downlights as the omnidirectional light output of the lamp is not required for this application. You want all your lights out. The original foil reflector in the socket, which also serves as thermal insulation for incandescent lamps, does not reflect the light that the lamp emits upwards very well. I tried to improve the light output of a traditional ceiling light with screwed-in LED bulbs by removing the plastic diffuser from the LED bulb itself (I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS). The lack of a diffuser means all of the LED's light comes from the 'bulb', but it's now much more directional, which may work for or against you depending on how the bulb sockets are placed in the fixture and where you want it to go light. fell. You'll often come across some ugly "hot spots" visible on a fixture's glass plate, but perhaps they indicate something in the room that you want more light on. The first photo shows the inside of the lamp as it was. used just before I installed the LED lighting engine. A 10 W compact fluorescent lamp was screwed into a single E26 socket. It was the largest CFL bulb that could fit in the glass fixture cover/diffuser. The purchase of an alternator was prompted by an incident with this light a few weeks ago - I removed the glass cover to remove the dead bugs and also removed the CFL to clean it. I noticed that the glass spiral portion of the CFL was loose in relation to the base of the lamp (ballast), but decided to reuse the lamp. However, during careful assembly, the tip of the CFL glass tube broke off. Luckily the glass cover was in place when the bulb broke so broken glass from the bulb was minimal. "Okay, that's it! No more damn CFLs!” I found this light shortly after and decided it was a much better (but yes, and much more expensive) alternative to the E26 LED bulb. First a 10w CFL was installed, then a 17w LED light source was installed just to show the light output schematic. These are NOT manual/fixed exposure shots, so overall light output cannot be compared. However, the LED is MUCH brighter to the eye, and the instant full brightness is much appreciated on the light fixture used often in that "I want light, I want it NOW" app (above the dark stairwell outside my aging Parents). bedroom on the 2nd floor). Please note that some of the attached photos show the clear plastic cover removed. I made my choice, but I DO NOT RECOMMEND that you follow my lead. This cover performs an important safety function by protecting fingers and conductive tools from live components when the device is energized. Keep in mind that someone else might be curious and see how to change the "light bulb" in the ceiling light one day. Should the alternator fail while mains power is still present, the insulating cover prevents a potentially fatal blow to the curious and unwary. Note to the creators of this alternator if you're reading this: I have a feature request for a future revision: built-in microwave motion detection radar! This has become a "thing" and has some advantages over PIR (Passive Infrared), particularly when mounted behind the glass cover of an overhead light. Radar motion detection is a very inexpensive feature to add, but I'd probably pay a significant premium to get it (hint, hint).