Review on CRS N53004 Assembly Cherokee Length by John Banks

The product itself appears to be of good quality, well marked, with a good cross and good pliable wellies. After I installed and drove it, it seemed properly balanced and didn't add any additional NVH beyond what is expected with normal 4WD use instead of 2WD. I know that many masters do not have the experience that some of us have. So let's turn this simple job into one we can do well, okay? Read on if you are unfamiliar with this part or job.1. This is a direct replacement for the confirmed Jeep Grand Cherokee OE P52105884AA front shaft. I don't know why they used 6 different shafts during the production process but they are there. See attached pictures for visual confirmation but if your shaft has this part number it is a replacement for it and as such many sellers do not cross reference their part numbers. This stock comes fully assembled to be bolted on but you should pay attention to the pictures comparing the gear removed from the factory stock and the gear included in this kit. You replace your 5/16" bolts on the end of the constant velocity joint (in the center differential) with new hex bolts. Be sure to reuse the three curved straps that connect the bolts in three pairs (see original equipment pictures). Thread lock was applied to the screws when originally fitted. I recommend you do the same. Not red 262 or 271 Loctite, use 242 medium blue. Differential, you must be extra careful not to remove the end caps or loosen them. If you do this the needle bearings inside can fall out and if this happens you will either have to put them back in and reassemble them or if you lost the needle bearing you need to replace the U-joint with a new one before installing. I think they really should wrap it with a padded belt to prevent accidental removal. ts store review) This kit oddly includes two internal locking rings which, I think some models will need. The receiving end for my U-joint has tiny raised edges that grip the U-joint caps on each end, see pictures. So I didn't need them. What I could use is a set of 1310 style U-joint straps and bolts. You can find it here at Revain and it's only a few dollars. I had to come back later and replace mine with a new one because at work I only had the old gear I made when I was shooting.3. PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE YELLOW STICKER shown in the photo! During installation, the air must be removed from the trunk. This means that you simply have to connect the CV joint flange by hand using the 6 screws provided. Support the other end with an elastic cord or tie with twine to prevent the shaft from "hanging" its full weight on the connected end. With one hand (or the other), press the U-shaped end of the shaft and slide towards the rear of the vehicle. This compresses the constant velocity joint rubber boot and forces air out. Now, while holding it, alternately tighten the screws as you normally would until they stop. Then remove the bungee cord or cord retainer and extend the shaft to connect the end of the U-joint to the U-joint mount on the front differential. Secure clamps with screws (again with medium strength blue Loctite 242), tighten fully. If you accidentally overextend the stem and have to recompress it to fit, I highly recommend partially loosening the end of the CV joint before compressing to deflate as originally stated. Pain in the butt, I know, but look at the reviews on this and other similar stocks and see photos of brand new boots that have been ripped apart after ignoring the warning. I can't afford to ruin a $200 mine and waste my time, can I? I think that's all. I know I can always get help buying a part like this if people provide detailed instructions and notes with pictures. Especially with this part, because there are so many different part numbers and types for it, just making sure you're actually getting the right part is a big help. TaDa!