Assembling the printer is very easy and only takes a few minutes. There is a step-by-step assembly video on YouTube. Just search "Anycubic" on Youtube. Equipment: Everything you need for the first test prints is available. - SD card. With Cura software, quick start guide, print sample file - USB to SD card adapter - 1kg black PLA filament and filament holder - Various tools like spatula, wrench, screwdriver etc. - Hot-end replacement A: The printer offers some features, which I have only seen in much more expensive devices. I was particularly impressed by the touchscreen. Most printers require you to navigate using the rotary knob. It works via the touchscreen as if you were using a smartphone. Another feature is a sensor that checks whether the thread is on the spool. Otherwise the printing process stops and can be continued after changing the roll. In general, you can also use a piece of dental floss or a toothpick if you don't want to use the sensor. Then it does not have to be attached to the roll holder. The roll holder is not attached to the printer body. This can cause it to slip during printing. If you have problems, you should secure the holder with a screw clamp or something similar. There is a video on Youtube showing manual alignment. The calibration works very quickly and easily. Software: There is a version of Cura with 3D printable models stored on an SD card. The version is already old. Since the program is free, you can also use the current version on the Cura homepage. In general, optimizing settings is a science of its own. Fortunately, there is a lot of information about the settings that make sense. There are also two highly recommended Facebook groups for the Anycubic printer. They're easy to find wherever you search for "Anycubic". After a while I switched to the program Simplify3D. This opens up even more customization options. Unlike Cura or Slic3r, this program is paid. I usually use 0.1 mm for the layer height. Theoretically, it should also be 0.05 mm, which means that the printing process takes longer. If the print speed can be set, you should set a low value, otherwise the quality will suffer. I usually print at 50mm/s. Thread: The manufacturer recommends PLA, ABS, HIPS, WOOD. In my experience, PET also works very well. So far I've tried the following filaments: - PLA (extruder temperature: 200°C, print layer temperature: 60°C) Good results. - PET (extruder temperature: 210°C, bed temperature pressure: 70°C) Good results. It is more flexible than PLA.- Taulman Nylon (extruder temperature: 245°C, print bed temperature: 60°C, print speed: 35 mm/s): good results. The material is very flexible. Nylon Minadax (extruder temperature: 270°C, print bed temperature: 80°C) Problematic. The required temperature is relatively high. The results of the printer have disappointed me. Conclusion: A good printer for little money. I am very happy with the results so far. Open questions can be clarified quickly via the support team or the Facebook group.
🖨️ IFUN 3D Printing Liquid Resin: High-Quality Innovative Solution
5 Review
UV Curing Standard Photopolymer Printer by IFUN
5 Review
🖨️ FLASHFORGE Adventurer: Enhanced 3D Printer with Removable Extruders and Monitoring Features
4 Review
High-Precision And Stable Creality Ender 3 V2 3D Printer With New UI, Silent Mainboard, Effortless Filament Feed-In, XY-Axis Tensioner, Resume Printing, And Large Build Volume Of 220×220×250Mm
11 Review