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Review on ๐Ÿ”‡ Enhanced Vibration Isolation Pads for Washing Machines and Dryers - Silent Feet Twin Pack by Brittany Stewart

Revainrating 3 out of 5

Some Tips To Minimize Vibration At The Source (For LG FL Washers And Dryers)

UPDATE. A month later: I played around with it for a few more weeks to make sure the problem was with my flooring and not the LG WM3470HVA DLEX3470V washer/dryer pair. I raised the pavers and fixings, then laid another layer of 3/4 inch floor plywood over the existing floor. I tried again with pads. Despite all of this, I still felt unacceptable vibrations in certain RPM ranges. spin cycle. I removed the washer and dryer from their stands. It helped a bit (maybe 50% better), but I still couldn't believe a thousand dollar washing machine could be that loud. I complained to LG who, to their great credit, agreed to replace the washing machine. The new one was a little worse than the first! I complained to the Home Depot I bought from. To THEIR great credit, they agreed to collect the set and give it to me. I went to a local electronics store which I dealt with ovens and refrigerators and was impressed with the Electrolux Series 60 IQ-Touch washer and dryer, including the Electrolux warranty for the second floor. Deal and chose NOT to include the pedestals -- for several reasons other than the potential for increased vibration (notably the loss of folding/workspace at the top of the W/D kit and the difficult access to the upper cabinets). The result is no plaster or plywood reinforcement and is SILENT and STURDY as expected. Also, the Electrolux vapor seems to be better than the LG in every way in every way (not REAL vapor and a door that doesn't open easily to allow air to circulate). Otherwise we like them much better (if not only because of the vibration). . . not at all for others. . . and just as a side note for the rest (myself included, the home appliance in question is LG's new front loading washer and dryer from 2012), here are some things to consider regarding anti-vibration mounts/shock absorbing feet in general and front-loading Washing machines to be considered are vibrations in particular. Of course, sinks, especially when mounted on fancy factory brackets (which compound the problem by raising the center of gravity another 15 inches), lend themselves perfectly to placement on a concrete slab in the basement/garage. The downward rotational force of a spinning drum is exponentially greater than that of a top-loading machine (which rotates outward). So if you place your unit on the first floor (or worse, second floor), you're more likely to just have to live with vibration - either from the floor and adjacent walls, or from the block itself. to minimize at the expense of the latter (device vibration), which can lead to the fact that the FL washing machine bucks like a mustang, constantly looking for a balanced load. It's actually not a perfect compromise. The simple key, however, is to try to mimic a sturdy concrete base as closely as possible, which can be done very effectively when installed on the ground floor and to a lesser extent the second floor. Keep in mind that we are most likely dealing with a 3/4" plywood sub-floor and 2x6 joists spaced 12" apart (or maybe worse for some designs) and if only four tiny round washer feet (maybe 2" in diameter?) lying directly above or very close to one of these joists (highly unlikely) the subfloor will always sag from the extreme downward force exerted by these tiny feet, causing the floor to vibrate and shake. the area of the four contact points so that most of the "floorโ€ takes the pressure. This can be accomplished by reinforcing the floor - not from below, but ABOVE the subfloor and BELOW the equipment - with a simple 12 x 12 concrete slab available from any major hardware store (nominal dimensions approximately 11.75" x 11.75") " x 1.8" or so). Five cobblestones in front (two just for beauty), three in back. The total width of the washer and dryer is very close to the total width of five such cobblestones abutting each other. From the front (assuming the washing machine is on the left and the dryer is on the right) the washing machine's feet are on pavers 1 and 3 and the dryer's feet are on pavers 3 and 5 (note this changes when the dryer is on the left, and that in each case the middle paver #3 supports the innermost foot of each of the units.) For consistency in the front, place three load-bearing pavers so that pavers 2 and 4 sit squarely between load-bearing pavers 1, 3, and 5 fit. At the back, imitate cobblestones 1, 3, and 5 from the front. The approach I took after getting frustrated with the anti-vibration/shock absorbing feet approach and it made a real difference. Are all vibrations gone? No, the washing machine still vibrates a little in a certain speed range both when running up and down, but this has been greatly reduced and is quite tolerable given the alternative of moving the entire laundry to a plate cellar. The efficiency and convenience of the FL washing machine is an acceptable compromise when compared to the notoriously quieter spinning head machine that has served us well for the past 20 years. And the last tip: what to do if it has to happen on site, i.e. in cramped or other hard-to-reach places. It's a bit more work, but it's doable (even alone, but better with an assistant). You will need two 2x4 pieces and two 1x4 pieces - each about 6-7 feet long. Cut enough material from the ends of your wood to make four approx. 3-inch scrap platforms for temporarily lifting and supporting the front legs of the instrument. These little platforms should be the height of one end of a 2x4 plus one end of a 1x4 folded and bolted on top - an overall nominal height of 2-1/4" off the floor. Tilt the washer back and assemble the two ends 2 -1st/4 platforms under two front legs that allow him to sit on platforms with a backwards incline Do the same with the dryer Now connect the remaining 1x4 with 2x4 screws so you have about a 5 foot -Lever also located 2-1/4" off the ground. Swing the units on the front platforms forward toward you while simultaneously clamping (pressing with your foot alone) the lever all the way back as close as possible the center of the machine to keep the unit balanced when tilted back its two front legs and center back over the lever The unit is raised at three points approximately 2-1/4" off the ground to give you room n to place a 1.8" block under the BACK feet. Now do the same thing with the dryer and use a broom or similar extension to push three pavers under the now raised rear feet of the washer and dryer. Again, the center #3 paver should support the innermost legs of both the washer and dryer. Scoot back forward onto the front drop platforms to remove the levers, then back to rest on the back cobblestones. Now rock even further backwards to remove the front drop platforms and place the pavers back under the front legs, carefully leaving some clearance to allow pavers 2 and 4 to rest on support bearings 1, 3 and 5. Finished! Hope this helps you a little!

Pros
  • For All Top And Front Load Washers And Dryers
Cons
  • High Price