Review on GeeekPi Raspberry Pi 4 Armor Case with Cooling Fan - Premium Aluminum Alloy Case for Ultimate Cooling Performance! by Jonathan Sanders

I bought this to support 2ghz pi4. (It replaces a plastic Canakite case with a fan and small heatsinks.) Bottom line: You don't have to buy a coupler kit and modify the case to use it. (Updated to be more concise and to include test results. Update 2: I finally managed to get the screws deep enough to tighten the case, so upped my rating by one star.) Good: Cooling. I overclock to 2GHz (poor) and 750MHz (gpu). I control fan speed with pi4 hardware pwm based on temperature. (You'll need a simple schematic and script for this.) Under light loads, the temperature stays at around 42 with fan utilization around 40%. At this speed, the fan is almost silent. When running a Sysbench test that fully utilizes all four CPUs and playing videos to keep the GPU on (and the fan running at full speed), the temperature reached 60 C after a few minutes. In this case, the temperature is 8-12 degrees C or more lower than my previous case, and most of the time it's silent as the script rarely speeds the fan up over 80%. plastic windows. Beyond 10 feet or so, Bluetooth audio starts to stutter. I have a weak Wi-Fi signal but installed in my old case the pi4 can connect slowly. In this case I have to use an external WiFi adapter to connect. With a better Wi-Fi signal, this might work, but expect some degradation. Ugly: The screws cannot be screwed in completely. The metal was stacked around the screw holes to prevent the case from closing completely. The screws themselves have a hex head. Comes with a hexagon, pretty soft. The wrench slipped before the screws broke, but that would happen before the screws went deep enough to hold the case in place. The heat transfer surfaces on the heatsink/chassis were jagged due to poor polish. I am concerned that the heat transfer plates will be repeatedly squeezed and may gap and stop working as the case cannot be tightly sealed with screws. Design Notes: There are large gaps between the surface of the chips and the heatsink. Case filled with thick blue heat exchanger pads that come with the case. I doubted they would work well, but they seem suitable for this application. The fan is exposed so you have to be careful not to damage it when the case is on the back when messing around with poorly cut screws and screw holes. . I ended up putting some silicon feet on the top of the case so I can mount it securely on the back. I found enough room to glue a simple resistor-transistor circuit inside the case next to the I/O header for PWM fan control. Again, I didn't have to buy a faucet kit and rebuild the body to use it, but anyway I was able to eventually get it working.