initial inspection: the trap had material defects. The flaws are not in the paint on the tin, they should have happened before the paint was applied, a minor issue, you won't see them when it's installed in the engine bay. be pretty hard. I was put off when I grabbed the poor fittings, I thought they were plastic but they weren't, when they tapped together they made a distinctive dull aluminum clack. This shouldn't be a problem as long as the ICs are on the "output" port, but I did find some chips on the "input" ports, most likely from the port's threaded holes. The chips were black so I assume they were let through before the coating process. Installation: Installation was very easy, I wrapped the fittings in monster blue teflon tape and screwed the threads into all three nipples in the three ports without installing a drain or vent. . I then removed the two Allen screws because I had to flip the bracket, screwed it to another bracket in the engine bay and put the can back on the bracket. Recommendations: Due to the design, I would like to see the manufacturer. Activate 90s or 45s for 2 ports, that increases the price but also makes it more versatile. (You can suggest it like this but I couldn't find it) 2"/13mm) I've found that 3/8 works best with my SBC's PCV setup. Increase the thickness of the mounting bracket to allow it to line up won't flex under the weight of the hoses connected to it, not to mention the added weight of the oil.Or add a support at the bottom of the jar to lean on as it flexes the strut.I'll check for good or bad the can is when I've driven a few miles in a truck with a can installed.
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