One of the frustrating and misleading ways to advertise LED lights is to list the equivalent incandescent light wattage instead of what they actually consume. I mounted 4 of these LED lights on my 32HP diesel tractor and 2 similar LED lights on my 32HP diesel mower. Although it would be nice to put a 700W light bar on the tractor's front end loader the alternator can only supply 40 amps. My Ferris 5000Z mower's alternator is rated at 30A.I purchased these lights based on reviews and they are very bright. Incandescent bulbs produce 12-24 lumens per watt of light output and LEDs 30-90 lumens per watt. At the best extreme LEDs can be as much as 90 / 12 = 7.5 times more efficient at delivering light output on a per watt basis. The seller's claim of "effectively" producing the equivalent of 240W per light is still a bit of a stretch. 240W / 7.5 efficiency ratio = 32W. Since the actual current draw is 21W they are inflating the equivalency claim by 50% and more like 100% if the average incandescent output is 18 lumens per watt.They are what they are. Still pretty amazing for the price but when used on smaller machines the actual current draw is important. For reference these are the measurements per LED light:1.81A at 12.00V = 21.72W1.53A at 13.80V = 21.11W0.98A at 20.00V = 19.6WWith a 40A alternator you could use 10 of these lights and still have 25A for the rest of the machine. That lights up a field pretty well at night.I will waterproof these as they do tend to develop moisture under the lenses and this will quickly destroy the reflective coating behind the LEDs. An experienced roofer who builds and repairs metal outbuildings recommended using Geocel 2300 sealant for sealing metal to metal and metal to plastic seams. I have been using it ever since. It stays rubbery in very cold conditions and conforms to any movements by reliquifying in the hot summer sun. I love the stuff and swear by it for anything that may be out in bad weather like lights on a tractor.
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