I settled a dispute between ball and stone sharpeners. Correct answer: both. Ball honing machines undoubtedly produce excellent surface finishes. It's very easy to get a 45 degree hatch and the size of the scratches is very consistent. However, they have one major problem, which is that they don't do anything for small steps caused by worn rings, which are best visible as a ridge at the top of the bar, but there's another one at the bottom of the bar. The motor I conditioned also had some surface erosion caused by pitting. The ball honing machine perfectly traces the cylinder wall and removes an even amount of metal from the entire cylinder. This is true even when the cylinder walls are slightly curved or stepped. The stage remains, only with a larger diameter. This is where the three-stone honing machine comes into play. If there is a break in the cylinder's wall, it skips over it and sharpens the material around it until it is level. In the case of the top combs, it concentrates the abrasive action on them and quickly removes them. I chose the Yotoo sharpener because it has spare stones unlike cheaper models. It also has an adjustable stone pressure that can speed up sharpening or make the job easier if you see grooves that are too deep. It's important to use LOTS of lube. I honed horizontally and sprayed 30W oil down the length of the cylinder wall before each honing. Thread cutting oil is also suitable for honing. After 30-45 seconds of honing, stop honing, squeeze the stones together so they don't scratch the walls of the cylinder you just sharpened, remove them and wipe the cylinder walls to inspect . I've been constantly measuring with a micrometer and shackle gauge, measuring at least 4 digits each time. Because I cleaned some pretty ugly cylinders I had to spend a lot of time working on those cylinders. Many people are afraid of removing too much metal when honing. You really don't need to worry. These hones are equivalent to 240 grit sandpaper. There were about 70 square inches of cast iron in the walls of my cylinder. Imagine trying to change the dimensions of half a meter of cast iron with a sheet of 240 grit sandpaper, you will work for a VERY long time just to remove at least one thousandth. You can verify this with proper measurements, but that's not really a problem. After removing any dimensional errors with a number 3 grindstone, I switched to a ball grinder and gave it a final finish. The only thing I didn't like about this sharpener is that it doesn't auto-center perfectly. It still works if the three levers are pulled out unevenly, but this causes the hub to wobble, so I have to stop and start, move the hub a little, and try again until it's centered properly and evenly.
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