Review on 🖨️ Creality 3D Auto Level Pre Assembled Printer: 350x350x400mm - Efficient High-Quality 3D Printing by Eldrick Carlton

I've only had it a few days so I've only got a first impression. First, it works as expected. I did an auxiliary bed leveling and then turned on auto leveling. First test prints with the supplied PLA were very good - printed one of my best stands. I'm not even sure how important the aux leveling is, as the auto level explores the bed and creates a matrix - I thought it would be best to just close it and then let the auto bed leveling take over . It worked great. Adhesion with the supplied PLA and some E-Sun PLA Plus was excellent. There's no cable routing, you'll have to figure it out for yourself. Most YouTubers recommend replacing the stock Bowden tube with a Capricorn and a plastic extruder. with metal trim. I have a metal extruder kit but haven't installed it yet. The default extruder is fine for now, but I will complete the upgrade in the near future. Most YouTube videos of this car are between 8 months and a year and a half old. However, they should be very helpful during the initial assembly and setup. Assembly: Follow the instructions and watch many YouTube videos. This takes 1-2 hours depending on the tool. Just make sure you use the correct screws. It is nicely lined and very stiff. Automatic bed level: Factory set by BLTouch. Works perfectly. There is an issue where if you leave auto-orientation enabled on the printer, it prints a triangle that goes beyond your printable area. Disabling bed orientation on the printer and slightly changing the initial G-code in Cura solves the problem. G-code re-adds the auto-align to the file. By default, if you don't want to make any changes to the G-code, G-code will fetch the raster from the printer. Even if you want the bed to be leveled automatically, turn it off, the leveled grid will remain. Just run the auto level on your printer from time to time to update the grid. Triangle removal searches will include G-code and cover it more thoroughly. Noise: It's loud. I don't care, he's in my basement workshop. If you do, you can get the motherboard silent upgrade for around $50. Printing surface: Removable glass platform. Not sure what the finish is, but adhesion so far has been excellent. Hot End: Not fully metallic. The specifications state temperatures up to 260°C, so the number of threads will be somewhat limited. All metal modifications are available. Print management/Octoprint: This printer can print from micro SD or computer via USB. Comes with USB to Micro SD adapter and 8GB card. Octoprint on the Raspberry Pi is an option for remote wireless printing, but the Ender 5 Plus tries to USB power the Raspberry Pi. You can tape the 5V pin or open the wire and cut off part of the red wire. You can check if it works by plugging in the USB port while the printer is off. If the LCD lights up, you did something wrong. Again, you can search this thread for more details. Power Supply - Comes with automatic 500W Meanwell switching. Slicer: Creality Slicer, a version of Cura. I use regular Cura and it works fine. So far I like this printer - if you follow the instructions and get the correct Z height it just works (I've tried PLA and PLA+). Lulzbot Taz 6 ($2500 machine) and ease of use are about the same. The construction volume is huge. large beds are usually difficult to level; The automatic leveling takes care of that. This printer has been around long enough that the firmware feels mature, and Creality have made some nice updates. The CR-10Smart will be available soon and will cost about $100 less. It has a slightly smaller build volume, automatic base leveling with a load cell, and can be assembled and ready to use in 15-20 minutes. I was thinking of waiting for that, but Creality has released machines in the past that aren't quite ready yet and will take a few months to install the firmware and fix some other issues.