Review on 🛠️ Milescraft 1311 Joint Pro: All Steel Self-Clamping Doweling Jig with Guide Bushings (1/4 in., 5/16 in., and 3/8 in.) - Professional Quality by Bob Schultz

I have never used dowels to join panels before as precise drilling was required. For a project I bought to make 25mm thick MDF cabinets I needed hidden fasteners and didn't have to fill in where screws were used while using very precise joints. I first experimented with a very expensive pocket hole tool that tended to pull the joints out of alignment. - something I found very difficult to avoid after a little internet searching. So I bit the bullet and bought this device. I also had to look for a 3/8 drill bit and 3/8 dowels. First I read a few reviews asking how to drill thicker material and keep the holes centered on the edge. The solution I found was simple - buy a pack. The seals for builders/glaziers are available in thicknesses from 1 mm to 6 mm. Place a pair of these spacers side by side on the plastic plates on either side of the jig's center clamp post - this will push the MDF down equally on both pieces. I used 4mm flat washers to center the 3/8 drill plate on the edge of the 25mm MDF. I was even able to create a slight deliberate offset at the L-joints to allow flush use of the 4mm washers on one side and the 3mm spacers on the other side. The other creates a 1mm thick edge for flush cutting with a cutter. As a testament to the accuracy of this jig, I had never attempted dowel splicing before joining 3m sections of MDF in edge-to-edge and edge-to-face joints using 8 sets of 3 dowels along the joint and she had just knocked the hammer is even more surprising because the dowels I ordered were on the thick side, there was literally no play in the holes. The 3 meter L-Joint (Edge to Face) is perfectly aligned at its edge and also perfectly aligned at the ends. This leads to another issue that people have raised that there is only one grapple that fits on the rig. This bothered me when thinking about how to drill my long connections and it would be nice to be able to buy extra clamps to secure the long connections, but I found this by turning the tension tool in the middle of the long one Section placing and placing and securing shims to match the thickness set by the mullion, I was then able to move the drilling jig along the length of the piece, removing the backing pads and re-clamping as I went, but keeping the jig itself in place the whole time and hold in place to make sure the pieces of wood don't move. What I wrote above probably sounds like gibberish if you don't have one of these devices in front of you, but it makes sense once you start using it. I would 100% recommend this to anyone looking for an accurate and versatile pin adjuster.