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Germany, Berlin
1 Level
751 Review
29 Karma

Review on ๐Ÿ‘Ÿ Van Unisex-Adult Authentic: The Ultimate Footwear for Style and Comfort! by Harry Ashcraft

Revainrating 4 out of 5

Better than GriGi

So this is a secondary review after spending more time with Lifeguard: After climbing more with Lifeguard, the performance is much better. I could also compare it to GriGri. When using 9.9mm rope, the operation is buttery smooth and the descent feel is much better. I've learned to control the cable in the brake arm and can keep it out of the way (like the GriGri) and control braking by balancing the pull on the bottom handle. With large sports ropes or large guide ropes there is still a tendency to have too much friction which can lock up the clamp when taking out slack quickly. With my 9.9 SAG, however, the rebound is great and the cam still engages very well even under load, doesn't slip an iota and allows for easier braking when the climber needs a break. More and more people at my gym are choosing it for its size, great build and ease of use compared to the GriGri. I still think it doesn't deserve 5 stars because of its imperfect performance with larger diameter ropes, but I'm happier with the lifeguard than after the first few sessions. Give it some time and learn how to use it properly and it will pay off. Original Rating: I really want to give five stars but I can't because I keep going back to my ATC and it ends up sitting in my pocket as a backup or for those who forgot their fall arrest device. Advantages: 1. It is smaller and lighter than the GriGri2. The construction is very solid and the metal handle feels very solid.3. The cam lock is very tight, holds climbers very well and locks in just the right place. The sag can be taken up without locking, but with enough force or when dropped, it will lock tightly and not slip off. 4: Cool factor. Anyone who sees it should ask what it is and if it can be used. Disadvantages: 1. Lowering the climber requires very precise stick control. Because the handle is short to match the size of the device, it's difficult to grab and handle with a full hand decently. Also, the decline seems to be either too slow or too fast, finding a good middle ground is very difficult for me.2. In contrast to the GriGri, when descending, the rope must be directly in front of the device so that it can run smoothly back to the device. If it's not in the way, it creates too much drag and there is no wear plate for the rope to slide over. Summary: Unfortunately I'm sticking with my tried and tested ATC and this will be my backup belay device. I feel like ATC gives me more control and feedback. I think the Lifeguard is well constructed and will last for many years of climbing and use. I may not have given it enough time after a dozen or so test climbs and if that changes this rating will change, but it's not my #1 belay device at the moment.

Pros
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Cons
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