I swap out sump and well pumps every 5 years (Zoeller recommends every 7 years) but SE MA has been extremely wet this year, lots of ground water and my 3 year old pumps have it much more works often than usual. I'd rather swap switches than find what I should have next year. It is not for nothing that most plumbers only use Zoeller pumps here. I changed some of them and read many reviews. I'm not trying to sound like your mother or Zoller's attorney, but it sounds like a lot of reviewers live a little dangerously. The switches themselves are fairly easy to swap out, 6 screws and 4 spade terminals. However, there's a reason the manual includes things like setting torque and test pressure; You may throw the toaster in the tub if you don't follow ALL the instructions. The small nylon fitting has a 1/8 inch NPT (National Pipe Taper or National Pipe Thread, depending on which expert you ask). is not metric or ASE, both do not fit. As #7 in the instructions says, tighten until "two or fewer threads are showing". Do not try to reuse the old plastic plug. If you removed it (7/16 wrench), the threads are likely stripped. You can buy pressure test parts at almost any hardware store. You will need an ohmmeter to test the continuity terminals (two vertical posts at the bottom of the pump side). I hope it goes without saying that the pump should be off throughout the installation. Torque settings (22 in-lbs) ensure even pressure across the entire seal. And don't forget to take a picture or notes of which colored wire goes with which spade connector. I've attached a photo showing which wire goes where; they correspond to the wiring diagram enclosed with the switch. The photos were taken with the pump facing me, with the float in my right hand. There are also 3 showing an example of a compression test rig I'm using. The only complaint I have with Zoeller is the size of the charts. The instructions appear to have been written by an engineer and then printed on what I can assume was a paper saving measure to cram everything lawyers need onto one piece of paper. I've attached an enlarged copy of the schematic, making it as simple as possible. The numbers on the diagram correspond to the numbers on both the switch and the metal case the wires are attached to, as well as what color the wire goes to. FYI, the diagram appears to cover multiple pump models as the M53 does NOT use the red wire as shown in the diagram. Where there is red on the diagram, it is the white power wire. The electrons don't care what color the wire is.
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