Review on 🔇 Dynamat 10455 Xtreme Bulk Pack: 9 Sets of 18"x32"x0.067" Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener, Black by Khiam Burton

I did some research before deciding on the Dynamat. There are some cheaper competitors out there that people swear are just as good, and they could be, but I just don't trust them that much. In fact, if you do your research, you'll find that some people have opted for roofing material that you can buy at Home Depot. Someone must have gone insane to put $20 worth of roof tar in a $20,000+ car. The only negative thing people have to say about Dynamat is that it's expensive, but buying big packs of Revain saves you a ton of money and it's actually a pretty economical do-it-yourself solution. I looked around and Revain has the best price ever. The main competitors and my impressions of them. I have not purchased or used these products, but that is why I chose Dynamat. I'm not an audio professional. This is the first time I've used soundproofing on my car and I'm writing this to help everyone else think about it. 1) RAAMAudio RAAMmat + Ensolite foam is the most economical "legitimate" option. CDL Tiles" + bulk download vinyl. SDS would be an interesting choice. If you browse the forums you will see some people who really like these things, but I found the website confusing and couldn't help but really to be informed decision one way or another 3) Fatmat: The cheapest of all car dampers, but a "No, but I don't risk anything. This stuff is super cheap, doesn't rot like the competition and stinks. Had I used Home Depot roofing material before this product. Go on. And to the "REAL" competitor. 4) Second Skin Audio - Damper Pro + Closed Cell Foam (CCF) - Although I chose Dynamat based on reviews and comments on the forums, I think the Second Skin Audios line of products is actually superior to the Dynamat, but I have them abandoned for several reasons. Damplifier Pro is a little heavy More Dynamat Extreme. It won't matter much to most, but I'm building a car that prioritizes performance over sound. I want a better sound system, but if the weight gain is marginally better then it's not worth it. Many people say the Dynamat is the most expensive, but the Damplifier per 36 sq. Feet are $204 + shipping. Sometimes they have coupons but they are more expensive. The fact is that Dynamat has proven its effectiveness and is trusted by professionals. I don't think you can go wrong with Dynamat as the only negative people can say about it is that the price is high which is something of a myth. If you drive a large truck or SUV, want the absolute best sound and aren't concerned about the weight, I would consider the 80m2 Damplifier Pro Shop. Feet and CCF foam. I converted my trunk into a suitcase with Dynamat Xtreme. I have leveled almost every surface, doubled in some critical areas and was able to level my trunk with this kit. If you really want to go out and level the whole machine, you'll need over 100 square feet of this stuff. If you're doing trunk and doors like me, you'll need 50-80 square feet depending on if you want to cover the entire door. I would use a bulk kit for everything except the doors. You can of course use Dynamat in a large kit of doors but the door kit has 12" x 36" strips and offers a cleaner installation as they run the full length of each door. It wouldn't be the end of the world if I had more, but I'll try to make an accurate estimate of how much you need so you don't end up with a whole box of this stuff. And the last recommendation when I try to unload everything. information I learned. Dynamat claims that installing the Dynamat Extreme does not require a heat gun. That may be true, but after getting the trunk done with a blow dryer, I highly recommend using a blow dryer on problem areas and tricky corners. I was able to lay down the dynamat much smoother and nicer by heating it up a bit and rolling it. This is especially helpful when heating up corners and tight spots where you can't insert the roller, as it makes it easier to knead the dynamat with your fingers. I won't be using a heat gun on the doors though as I think there are more heat sensitive components there and I don't want to risk Dynamat claiming it isn't necessary. I plan to use Dynaliner on top of the door. Dynamat in the doors (and trunk I think) as well as by themselves in several places. I really hope this helps someone. If you have anything to say about my opinion or just want to comment on what I've done, please let me know.