SO have tried various methods to get it to fit and/or work properly. They are 16-22 gauge and I have good 18 gauge stranded wire. Crimping them with PRE-SHRINK is a waste of time. The soft heat shrink tubing absorbs the action of the crimp and does next to nothing when set up properly. 2. The area of the connector to be crimped (the metal where the wire is inserted) is too narrow for a crimping tool like the KLEIN 3005CD F12 as they have a barrel for crimping the front and back of the ferrule. 3. If you're using old school crimps like Sears or similar, they STILL don't crimp tight enough when fully closed to securely crimp the wire. it still slides out without resistance. AFTER the sparkle. the outer shell is made of hard plastic. VS regular shrink tubing that stays a little pliable. And that's why it's virtually IMPOSSIBLE to put the end with the connector on the connector because it's encased in TIGHT hard plastic that covers the end of the connector. IF you are REALLY persistent, you CAN. Crimp the wire AFTER shrinking if you dance with an old world crimping tool and dance it BETWEEN the pins around the middle of the wire leaving a dent in the middle. 6. IF you "crimp" it after curing, you don't know if it's a secure connection. because the GLUE holds the wire. So you can't see if it's a strong connection. Of course it can have a connector, but will it work with the right current? It's garbage. Seriously useless. I wouldn't trust them with speaker wire, let alone anything that carries electricity.
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