Review on Whiteline W53377A Black Bushing Kit by Gopal Baltimore

After reading and looking at many different guides and guides on how to change the LCA bushings on my 2000 Tacoma 4WD I decided to use these from Whiteline. All other brands seem to require you to cut and burn your old bushings, leaving the outer metal part of the factory bushings in the LCA. They replace the entire factory socket. I removed all of the steering rack bolts and outer tie rods from the steering knuckles. If I did one side at a time, I could just lift the strut and get out the rear cam bolts. Once I had the LCA removed, I laid it on the floor and used a Chevy Silverado mechanical bottle jack to pry out the old bushings. Toyota's jack may have worked, but Chevrolet's jack has already failed. Insert the jack into the LCA and slide one side out all the way. I didn't cut anything. I didn't heat anything. Of course, this is an AZ truck, so there was no rust anywhere. This will push out the rubber part, inner metal part and outer metal sleeve in one piece. When the jacks popped out, they rebounded a few feet, so don't do it by pointing them at your kitchen cabinet. Lubricate the inside of the new bushings and insert the metal tube. You now have a complete hub ready to go back to your truck. I used a vise to compress it, using a piece of hardwood with a hole cut in it as the receiving cup (so the vise doesn't press down on the rubber on either side while you're fighting you). I used large water pump pliers to make sure the other side of the vise was pressing on the metal exterior and not the rubber. I did it all myself. The next hassle was installing large shims when the LCA went back into the truck frame. I am very happy with my work and have saved $800 what the local store needs at work. Costs.