So far so good. The LED wires are isolated from the switch contacts and the LED will glow at just 2.3V and less than 1mA in a lit room. I'm going to be using LED wires with a 3.3V microcontroller output, and that's what I would call ideal brightness at 3.3V. I don't see the full 1mA to 4V current. At 12V I see 7-8mA. The brightness in a daylight room doesn't change much after you raise the voltage above about 4V. At least in a room with daylight. Switch pins in different ways to show boot/switch status. They effectively drive the LEDs on the source inputs to switch, or on the load side, or in parallel. Look closely and you will see these connections. . In my case the switch state is not what I want. I want the other state represented by the LED (i.e. the load I'm driving is actually running) that this switch allows since the LED is separate.
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