Took me about 20 minutes per mirror to install on my 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4x4. I watched a youtube video on how to remove the door panels and it helped a lot. I performed the entire replacement process using a Phillips screwdriver, a torx screwdriver (T4 I think) and a 10mm socket wrench. I haven't had the bent bolt problem that other buyers have had. The studs were long enough to take the mounting nut and tighten it normally. The steering motors work well and I don't see any abnormal vibration in the mirror image at highway speeds. The heaters appear to be working but so far they haven't had much ice to do a good test. Parabolic (convex) mirrors are independently adjustable - they do NOT move with electrically adjustable mirrors. You press them with your fingers to adjust them once and then they stay in place. They take a little getting used to after using traditional convex mirrors, but they work great when changing lanes and merging into traffic. I haven't tried driving with the mirrors in the tow position, but they fold down easily. The mirrors fold inward toward the cab for car washing and parking on a busy narrow street. A few notes: the studs on the mirrors are either very slightly crooked, or there are holes in the truck doors. Mine are NOT curved. To install, use a gentle "slap coax" to insert the bolts into the holes. In short, an open-handed slap on the outer flange gets the bolts into the door holes with ease. I consider this a feature - it holds the mirror securely to the door so you can tighten the nuts without a second person holding the mirror from the outside. A light pat works great - don't overdo it. Make sure the pins line up with the holes before beginning the persuasion process. Also, the spacers that come with new mirrors are useless. throw them away I used old spacers and they fit perfectly. I think the folks having bolt length issues probably had new "fat" washers that misadjusted the outer flange so much that there wasn't enough thread on the front bolt to fit the nut. I would try pushing hard on the outer flange by threading a nut onto the front stud and see if that helps, or just use old compressed gaskets and make sure you line them up with the flange. Vibration problems have seal or nut torque problems. Don't over tighten the nuts - the studs seem to pull out of the flange easily if you turn vigorously. Not tightening them enough can also cause vibration issues. Tip: Use old seals. The only issue I had was the packaging material in the boxes the mirrors came in. I'm talking manufacturer packaging, not Revain. The manufacturer packages the mirrors in cheap Chinese Styrofoam, which has the structural strength of a moth's wing. Styrofoam crumbs fell out EVERYWHERE when unpacking the mirrors. I spent more time cleaning the little plastic beads than installing the mirrors.
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