🔌 Lippert 387874 Power Stabilizer Switch - Black: Enhance Stability with Reliable Control Review

Perfect for replacing the derailleur on my 2016 Wildcat Maxx 24 TT. Except for the mounting holes. Pro Tip: Take a photo of the wiring as you remove/cut the old switch. There are two (2) same gauge white wires coming from the RV and going to different colored wires. Make sure you know where to reconnect them on the switch.

This replacement was a perfect match for my RV's stabilizer system. But my old switch was in a round hole and the new switch was rectangular so I had to modify it to fit. I also had to add spade connectors to 4 wires to connect to my existing wiring. But this item worked fine after being installed in about 20-30 minutes.

It fits the original mounting holes for my Everest fifth wheel, but doesn't lock in the down position like my original. It's a guessing game with wires if you don't know which one is "hot" and where it connects. I used a schematic from another switch that was too small for my mounting hole. Because you can't rely on the colors of the wires and you can't see the terminal configuration in this switch as they are sealed inside. My Hotwire was actually pink.

For the life of me I can't understand why it wasn't just a warranty part. (Besides the obvious: how much the company makes from these switches.) If you are one of thousands who have bad/failed/corroded switches in a Lippert stabilizer system or leveling cylinder system, this will fix the situation. And it's (finally) waterproof and weatherproof, so shouldn't fall out again. Why didn't this standard even exist? I guess we'll never know.

I didn't like the redesign of the rear derailleur which had to be cut to fit flush with the trailer. The screw holes matched but the tail would not fit through the existing slot in the trailer. Also, the replacement switch is hardwired to the back of the switch. The old one had plugs that plugged into the switch. j I also found the cost too high and it took less than 2 years. A faulty old switch was probably why the new switch was hardwired and sealed.

The switch failed after four months. The supports go out, but not in. I checked the switch with an ohmmeter, the pullback circuit was open. So the retractor part of this switch is out of order. Plugged in my temporary switch I made for work as the original switch failed while we were on vacation and this temporary switch worked fine. I'm not sure how to request a Switch replacement as I believe this Switch failure was premature. Also, the instructions were poor and I had to buy and add clamps…

Old switches break due to poor design and moisture and water vapor will rust on contacts because they are pure copper and turn green/black. To prevent this, the new switch is filled with black resin. The whole switch design is not that good in my opinion. You will need to purchase 4 metal pins to crimp the spare switch wires to connect to the RV wires. You can get them at any auto parts store. Then you're back in business. Signs of a bad switch are going up but not going down. Or you have to…