SereneLife PAMP1000 - Stereo Power Amplifier with Digital Dual Channel Amp Design, Built-in Circuitry Protection, Stereo/Bridged Mode Selector, Auto System Activation & Compatibility for External Devices Review

I decided to save money after buying too much 7.1.4 home theater so I bought it to hook up my two rear surround speakers and thought 3 stars meant at least some people had good experience with it. I was so wrong by accepting and ignoring reviews. This product is a complete waste and fire hazard. I plugged it in and turned it on the first time and it started SMOKING A LOT without me plugging anything. After that I will never buy anything less than 4 stars again.

It's just not a very good amp, even for the money. The auto-sensing circuitry is so poorly implemented that it renders the amp almost unusable. If you find yourself missing the first two or three seconds of audio as it "feels" input, then decides to turn it on, or decides the quiet parts of what you're hearing shouldn't be boosted , and turning these off are handy things in an audio amplifier, then this might be what you need. As an added bonus, it's underpowered and the output toggle buttons…

If you're looking for a cheap, quiet stereo amplifier, look elsewhere. I've bought Pyle power amps in the past and the quality has dropped drastically since my last purchase. The first amp that appeared was accidentally turned off because the overload protection circuit was activated. The second amp didn't have this problem, but it didn't play at low volumes. Of course, for this amp to work, there must be a minimum input. anything below a certain input level will turn off the amplifier, making…

This amp is a clone of the Audiosource amp100 with one big difference, unlike the amp100 the Pyle amp is not interchangeable. A sticker "The material is magnetized, do not ship by air" was stuck on the box. Before I opened the amp I wanted to return it and buy an Emotiva mini. Imagine my surprise when I went to the Revain website and clicked the back icon; Instead of a return instruction, there was a note that the amp was classified as dangerous and could not be returned. I have been instructed

I bought this amp because I needed a second amp to drive the rear highs in my Dolby Atmos system, coupled with the pre- Outs of a Denon X4300H receiver. Caution - when replacing a fuse, do not overtighten the spring-loaded housing when screwing it in. I did so and the flimsy internal fuse box broke, which meant a $40 repair before I started using it. I have calibrated the surround system and found that the volume on the dial should be around 8-9 (out of 10) and the receiver also sets the…

I bought this device because my Marantz 7013 receiver didn't have enough built-in amplifiers for a 7.1.4 system. There is a preamp output for the top two speakers. I connected the inputs of the Pyle amp to these outputs on my Marantz. I connected a pair of 8 ohm ceiling speakers to the Pyle speaker jacks. Everything looked fine during calibration, but when I play content or a test signal, Pyle only plays audio for a few seconds and shuts off output to the speakers. I can turn Pyle off and on…

The Pyle PAMP1000 makes an excellent subwoofer amplifier for Audiosource's 8-inch wall-mounted subwoofer. I set it up in bridge mode and it delivers enough performance. It is connected to my Yamaha RX-V471 via an RCA cable from "Subwoofer" to Line 2 of the right RCA input of the Pyle amp. From there, the speaker wires connect to speaker A Right + and Left -, which the manual specifies for use in bridge mode. I set up my 5.1 system with Yamaha Autotuning. Before I started, I turned the volume on

I bought this through Revain and use it for my flat screen TV in the basement. The amplifier is powered by two old Bose 301 loudspeakers. I also wanted to make it possible to use the iPod as an alternative sound source. Various reviews criticized the way this amp automatically switches between two inputs, but thought I'd give it a try anyway because I'm SO brave a person. With an iPod connected to the "Line 2" input (which is the "main" input (but why not call it "Line 1"?)) and a TV connected…