Review on 🔧 Dorman 689-117 Engine Camshaft Synchronizer: Quality Replacement for Ford/Mazda/Mercury Models, Black by Albert Gaines

My 2001 Taurus started making a creaking noise from the driver/transmission side of the engine bay. After a little research on the internet, I read that the camshaft synchronization starts to work after about 100,000 km. The online manuals say you have to spin the engine to cylinder 1 TDC to change this. I have an easier way to find the OT that worked perfectly! - Begin by removing the throttle cable cover, disconnecting and reinstalling both throttle cables. - Disconnect the small coolant hose attached to the T-Stat. - There will be a plastic cover. around the wiring harness routed over the cam syncronizer. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry apart the two plastic halves. Removing the tape allows the plastic guard/wires to be moved independently, getting them out of the way. I tied a knot around the cables/plastic protection, pulled the cable back and attached it to the wiper - Disconnect the cable harness from the cam synchro. You want to rotate the motor so the lip fits into the hole in the top of the synchronizer. I did this with a 4 bolt pry bar on the water pump pulley. You can only move in one direction. Once the tab is in line with the notch, place the calibration tool on the synchronizer in the car. Using a flat edge/ruler, draw a line on the intake manifold that lines up with the arrow on the alignment tool. This step is important in order not to throw the motor out of sync. Remove the cover and remove the screw/washer holding the synchro. Insert a small flathead screwdriver between the synchronizer and the engine block and turn. Make sure you remove the alignment cap as you will break it when you pull the sync out. The tongue inside rotates as it exits the camshaft! Remove the synchronizer from the car. That's the hairy part. Put the cap back on the new synchronizer and install it in the approximate location, aligning the line you drew with the arrow on the cap and remembering to place the tip on the oil pump drive rod. Carefully remove the cap. Do not twist the synchronizer housing. Twist the tab slightly ahead of its position. When you have finished installing the synchronizer it will return to the correct position, aligned with the hole. You may need to use a rubber mallet to ensure the block is flush with the intake manifold. A properly seated sync block will allow you to place the alignment tool cap back onto the synchronizer in the car and draw the line you drew, the line. with the arrow on the cover pointing up. - Fasten the synchronizer immediately with the screw/washer. - Reconnect all cables and hoses. - Start the car and save over $500 in parts and labor.