Review on 🖨️ ANYCUBIC Resumable Filament Printing - Enhanced for Inches by Andrew Walton

I had high hopes for this printer. Some nice features: Cura compatibility, high build volume, a spare extruder (hedging, it turns out), and some useful tools (you'll definitely need them). I added a Pi based Octoprint server and connected it to the network. . Print profiles are easy to use and set up. However, the printer only worked with a calibration cube or a calibration target. I couldn't print to the printer for more than 4 or 5 hours before I had problems, see charts. Before I get to that point, let me talk about some other adventures. The first problem encountered was the bed leveling sensor which, due to its design, had an internal short circuit. The microswitch wires touch the aluminum body, so the switch never opens. I didn't know this and the initial calibration caused the bed to fall. Seemingly normal, given the spring-loaded design and quick hand on the power button - but still a problem that led to hours of debugging and little internet to solve. Couldn't tell if the sensor was defective or not. turned to the firmware to see if there are any features to fix this problem. Yes, but you need to recompile the firmware to activate it. Another adventure. After a quick boot, modifying the configuration file and compiling vscode, we started with Marlin 2.0.9.1. Cura was able to load the firmware without any problems. I could also see that the bed level sensor wasn't triggered. After a solution from a soul traveling the same River Styx, I discovered a solution with a cut needle. After a bit of disassembly with these handy tools from Anycubic, the firmware confirmed that the bed level switch was working properly. It looks like the limit switch test mode should be standard and should be part of the quality control process. I also found out that the display provided by Anycubic is its own variant and only has access to some features of the Marlin firmware on the Trigorilla controller board. This printer requires a GCode terminal. After loosening the level sensor and figuring out what angle was what in the firmware (not the manual), I was able to level the bed just fine. It was an iterative process, adjusting the Z-probe offset value and performing the calibration many times to ensure the head was at the correct height. The setting can be made for each print in baby step mode, but will not be saved without a firmware change. Even then it is not clear where this value is stored. This printer definitely requires a multi-point grid calibration as the platform is unevenly level and this will affect the adhesion of the first layer if not done correctly. The function works, it just takes patience and time. I also recommend the latest firmware. The bed is finally level, the firmware is up to date, the calibration prints are done and two days later I'm printing something 250mm x 250mm. A couple of hours passed, and then the printer gave out something due to overheating of the print head. I restarted the print and noticed that the temperature sensor on the extruder was erratic. I don't think the power supply is the problem as the spikes are transient, much faster than the extruder's cooling rate. This puts the printer into a protection mode that stops feeding filament. This will destroy the seal for obvious reasons. I then installed the replacement extruder that came with the printer, hoping that would solve my problem. Unfortunately, this is not the case (see attachment). I have more steps to try but this device is not working very well even after 3 days of installation. EDIT: Can you print long printouts? Or at least this particular one doesn't work well with OctoPrint. I printed fine straight away with the SD card. My Experience: I'm good at board design, microcontroller programming, desktop and network programming, 3D printing, mechanical design in Inventor, debugging and repairing electronic things. Attention buyers!