Review on 🚘 Dorman 741-904 Front Driver Side Power Window Motor and Regulator Assembly for Nissan Models - Enhanced Performance Guaranteed by David Romero

This combination product 741-904 is an economical replacement for the Sentra window regulator motor and driver's side power window. The overall quality/finish of the engine was not as good as Nissan parts but for the price it was good value. The motor wires were reversed compared to the power window/down switch in my car (see my paragraph below) which is the reason for the 3 stars. The motor was an economical Makita motor from the same reputable drilling company in a galvanised/bakelite gearbox. body, and only the regulator rail was engraved with the part number 741-904 "Made in Taiwan", but there was no Dorman logo, which is not uncommon. The motor cables were sheathed in black instead of blue (Nissan and Dorman Revain photo), which apparently isn't surprising (not a Dorman fake). The product seems to get the job done, and the Nissan parts it replaces cost around $300. You can buy the motor (Dorman 742-503 Window Regulator Motor) and regulator (Dorman 740-904 Driver Side Window Regulator Replacement for Nissan Sentra) separately, but if they are 10-15 years old, think about the wear and tear you've got. This Dorman combo has the same quality as buying the matching Dorman motor and ESC separately as currently the combo gets you the ESC practically free or conversely the motor for half price although this is subject to change. Unfortunately, as many others have noted, the polarity of the motor cables is reversed for my year of use. Dorman claims the incredible engineering makes things better than the original. LOLO Other observations: 1) The motor and ESC are sold as a unit, but in my case you can detach the motor (along with the gearbox) from the ESC with three pretty standard Phillips screws that attach it to its ESC mount. This is exactly the same as the Nissan original and you will also be able to purchase both parts separately. 2) When removing the door panel, you must first pull up on the armrest to access the panel and ESC/motor bracket. At the rear of the armrest is a cupped piece with extra fragile push/squeeze connectors and some putty to better hold it in place. Be as careful as possible when pressing on the spring clips/clamps that hold the "cup" part on the bottom if you can, some of my invisible plastics cracked there, although it wasn't a big problem i not happy with it . If you have some putty it can help, you can see where they're using it once you take it apart, and it's a good thing for a better fit when needed rather than potential play and vibration. Not a big deal but nice since my putty was too old to reuse. 3) As expected, you should keep all your original door mounting screws as they are not included. It is best to use a 10mm Allen key/ratchet to get it out of the door. Three hold the engine cover to the door and four hold the controller to the door, a total of seven 10mm satin (dark) zinc plated screws. 4) Two electrical connections are separated for operation. One is a wiring harness which for me allows the driver independent control of all 4 windows with about a dozen wires that are disconnected when the door panel is first removed. It's connected to all the windows and is basically independent of the swap you're doing, but it has to be unplugged to dismantle the door skin. The wires of the bundle are woven together with ribbon and a few inches upstream the two wires disengage from their braid and enter the connector, which is a small, simple connector. Engine Dorman. These two wires are sheathed, which is currently represented by a blue sheath in the Revain image. Most likely they are soldered from the engine side to the brushes in the engine (Dorman didn't check the part but looked at the original Nissan part and it was) and from the free end to the connector side of the socket. You turn it off to remove and replace old parts after removing the door panel. The Dorman part I received is well bonded to the motor assembly. I had to remove this tape to release the motor connector and thread it through the hole used in the original part - logical, just a note that might need some tape removal. On the original Nissan engine, the 2-wire engine cables ran in the opposite direction, which was more logical. So be careful not to get the sheath too close so the cable doesn't move if you forget how it was threaded out of the connector. metal in the door. Mark the hole where it will be attached to help you remember as there are many holes. The stock motor cable has a plastic fastener, as do the plastic snap rivets in the door panel that hold it in place, and don't put the fastener in a new one until you're sure everything works the way you want it to . 6) Two 10mm light gold hex head screws, also Phillips head, secure the glass to the regulator. If possible, use an old motor (temporarily connect the wiring harness to the control switches to adjust the height of the window, and provide those two gold screws with a small ratcheting socket extension for your outlet. The window basically comes out with just open a few inches up 7) When removing the window, being careful not to scratch it on the adjuster, lift it at a slight angle to raise the outside of the door. 8) Check the window once. The 7 replacement Dorman screws and 2 window screws are fitted before the plastic seal and molding are reinstalled. If your switch works fine but vice versa, you are not the first. If you want to change wires on the engine or wiring harness (see below). 9) You can put some lithium grease on the rubber guides installed in the doors that guide the sides of the glass when it dries out. or cause resistance to window movement. About changing motor cables if you find it necessary. There are many places where you can reverse them. You can: a) run the two wires to the main wire harness that connects to the main switches and swap them in that main wire harness. b) You can cut the two cable wires coming out of the main wiring harness into a 2 wire socket. which connects to the motor connector and use something like a crimp butt connector on each to swap them out, or c) you can try swapping them in the socket yourself with a 2 wire connector or go to Dormans part, d) try swapping them into the male free end of the connector, or) **my choice** cut/reverse, use crimp butt connectors adjacent to the free end on each of the two pins coming out of the motor assembly, or) open the motor/gear with 2 or 3 small Phillips screws and change them there. g) etc., anything that reverses the motor polarity, even if you want to do it in the control switch. I didn't undo my conclusions and decided to live with the problem. I didn't have quick crimp connectors on hand (no soldering) and found the mating 2 wire connectors held very well and I didn't want to risk damaging them by trying to pull the pins out. I wasn't interested in opening the main wiring harness at the wire jacket as it's on the side of the car, not the replacement side, and I didn't open the engine/transmission as the wires are soldered to the original Nissan unit and I preferred to leave it fitted at the factory (magnets can chip). Now that the door is reassembled and looks perfect and everything works great, yes I'm not happy and a bit sad that I went backwards but in my case I called. Too bad I didn't have quick butt connectors (a tube with plastic on the outside and metal on the inside that needs to be pressed down on the bare ends of the wires for a good crimp) for the motor cable that I would have made. by cutting between the motor and the connector (e) above), although I know the situation now, but I bet the 2-wire connector makes it easy to unplug and re-insert each individual wire/pin. It didn't work out as easily as I had hoped, so you pay the money and take the risk. In my case, I always felt that the window should move relative to the switch ;-). So the problem is only in the other three windows! Perhaps buying the engine separately will avoid this problem, but it's hard to say. The same Chinese factories make everything, originally for Dorman and now for the aftermarket. In fact, while the combo part is of the same quality (motor, pulley and plastic guide inserts - Dorman specification), it could have been manufactured elsewhere in a different edition and show a slight difference in finish or assembly. That's how this business works. Why are they upside down? LOL, aftermarket bug. The ones that are mixed up may be because they meet all the specs for the fitment, which are carefully checked, but then accidentally end up using the same polarity as the passenger side. Or it could be because Nissan reversed polarity for their Mexican made vehicles, which was a rumor (were those the ones made before 5/1/2001? LOL that sort of thing). I read somewhere but that might just be a false rumor, I don't know and just mentioning it for completeness. In any case, this is Dorman's fault as it was intended to be "plug and play" without the required product number for all driver side windows on 2000-2004 Sentras according to the application information on their website at the time of purchase and review to glue . My parts had screw holes in the plastic bag they came in and looked like someone installed them while still in the bag, along with a blue permanent marker for the 7 important screws which were marked by hand. I asked Dorman about this and they said that when they receive a batch they take spot checks and check the hole spacing (quality of fit). The regulator was supplied pre-lubricated. I had some doubts it was fake but decided it was a Dorman after checking it out with their tech as the blue marking and missing logo made me doubt it. No problem. To be honest, my old Nissan engine is probably still fine, but I decided to reinstall everything. The actual problem I encountered was slight wear on the cable on the reel causing the winding to derail and bind. Any wear and tear on the cable that raises and lowers the window must be replaced. While you could only replace the cord if you have one, that would be a real pain, and you'd still have old plastic connectors that can fail over time, so you'd just replace the regulator anyway. Also, I had torn one of those plastic cable guides (about 3-4 of them) and as a result the cable wasn't centered. This could have been the result of a wiring jam and I had to raise the window by hand when I had to close the car when the problem first started. My original 2001 Sentra GXE window regulator seemed weak (maybe the gears in the gearbox were worn out), although it worked when I pulled it out, so after almost 15 years I decided I was better off putting a new motor in. even if it was aftermarket quality by -for the good price of this combo and knowing that at least the aftermarket motor and ESC were compatible (as to be expected but I was surprised beforehand). I kept the old motor as a "spare". Good luck everyone and thanks to all the reviewers and answers to questions actually made the job pretty easy if you're willing to take the risk of skin-picking some of the internal plastic. fasteners. Some of you may have a better tool for removing the panel, but I just used my hands. Line the tool up, when you figure out where they are it's best to push them out but the plastic gets brittle over time so your luck may vary.