Review on 🔪 High-Quality 9" L Reciprocating Saw Blade, 5 pk.: A Reliable Cutting Companion by Matt Barsa

Really irreplaceable thing for winter pruning of trees and pruning of roots. I use them instead of a hand saw for cuts that are too big for heavy hand shears and for those hard to reach places you can't reach with other tools. I've used similar blades from Porter Cable, but they have hardened steel blade tips so they don't dull quickly. They're also reinforced at the base, making them less likely to break when flexed. I use a chainsaw for anything over 4 inches and I find that the 9-12 inch length isn't needed for a little extra reach. I usually cut my rims to 5 inches, which I think gives a lot of depth and improves maneuverability. They work very well in a cordless saw and are by far the best for wet wood. The blades turn him into a Tasmanian cutter devil. Tips: My method of cutting wood is to first make all the large cuts with a chainsaw (5+ inches), then go back and cut the small pieces into 3-4 pieces. Foot sections with cordless saw/saw for quick and safe cutting with one hand. This makes cleaning up and moving a pile of rubbish much easier, saving a lot of time and effort. For pruning: Read the tutorial for specific tree species first so you make the right prunings for the best tree health and shape. . In general; Cut off dead parts first, then branches that are chafing/damaged/diseased, and finally any gargoyles that are sticking up directly from the branches and shoots underneath the entire tree canopy. Cuts should be made near the next lower branch, but far enough away that only scars remain on the cut branch (usually 1/2" to 3/4") for smaller branches. Whatever you do, don't just start chopping down the canopy and ruin the canopy - and never topple the tree. When the tree is overgrown, it is too late and you had better remove it, uproot the stump and plant a more suitable sized tree that you will be happy with.