My driver's door would not close, the alarm beeped, other doors closed but there was no sound from the driver's side. I noticed this when I opened the car and there was noticeably less noise from the driver's door, so I locked the car and opened the door. If you go to the dealer for anything, tell them you want to disable the auto lock feature! У меня было жалкое оправдание для дилера в Фарго, который сказал мне, что это функция "безопасности", и отказался это делать, больше похоже на то, что это денежная функция, поскольку дилер берет за это от 350 до 500 долларов, поскольку это занимает Not much time. disassemble the door, and the original cost about $100. This apology is also why I believe they removed the DRL disable feature as the manual says, but the car is unresponsive. Here at the dealer in Denver they fixed the emissions, it sounds like a fast food joint. We have removed the automatic lock from a computer with vcds. Why disable auto lock? It locks the doors after you hit 8-10mph so I could barely get from the mailbox to my house (about 50 yards) without locking the doors again, that was only when I was in 1st gear in the idle was. It's also annoying/frustrating because if you open all the doors (put the kid in the back seat) you have to get out but leave the kid inside (to get the diesel), then get back in the car and drive somewhere else and the doors will be blocked again. . Next time you get out the rear doors stay locked, very annoying to walk around the car to the rear passenger door only to find it's locked and then go back to the driver's side and unlock or scroll the key fob , if you have it handy. So all that unnecessary pointless locking and unlocking wears out the lock actuators and you have hundreds to replace or buy and do them yourself. You'll need xzn and torx triple square drive bits and a set of yellow nylon dockside cargo door pry bars for about $8. There is an English language (with a Russian/Polish accent) video online showing where all the hidden screws are. FYI, my 2012 only has 80,000 miles and broke down. There's no way to get in there to lube anything or replace any of the microswitches (the one in mine broke off, why isn't it stuck) as it's riveted and melted down so this is the only way to fix it. Also, my OEM had a different last letter than this (c instead of e iirc) but it should only be a revision as it works fine. The only thing this one didn't have was foam padding around the fork, but you can easily remove one from the OEM, peel the flange off that one, and glue it on. And just pull the old one out as the cables have to twist 1/4 turn to unlock them while in the door! I work for COS so if you need any help just comment and I'll try to help. Okay, so I downgraded my rating to one star because the parental controls keep tripping after multiple lock/unlock operations. I got fed up with it and ended up supergluing it as the seller wanted me to take it off and send it back. I don't think they have any idea how much work it takes to remove and replace a door lock and I will not leave my car with a door that won't latch and wait for another lock to arrive.
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