Review on 🔍 Morse ZWEP441014MC: The Ultimate 020 Inch Portable Solution by David Dortch

I've used Milwaukee band saws and they suck compared to these MK Morse blades. Milwaukee blades are band welded and have very poor alignment at the two ends where they are welded together. This causes the saw to jump every time the weld goes through the cut. And they jump furiously. But these morse blades have excellent weld end alignment, and when they go through the cut you don't even know it. In addition, Morse blades have much better steel and heat treatment. The sharp edges are made of a harder metal and stay sharp much longer. For every morse blade I use, it would take 3-5 Milwaukee blades to make the same cut. The low-grade metal and Milwaukee heat treatment makes the blade's teeth easy to chip off. By the time a Milwaukee blade becomes fairly dull and needs replacing, 25% of the teeth will be missing. The morse blade never loses teeth. Instead of tearing off the tooth, the metal is pulled out of the cut as it should be. In an attempt to find carry blades that cut and last longer than Milwaukee blades, I bought a test set of every brand of blade that Revain sells. . I use a lot of blades while working in a professional welding shop to make a living. I own and operate after hours welding and trailer repairs in St. Augustine, Florida. Metalworking is pretty much my main life. Experimenting and testing every wood I could get my hands on has been well worth it for me as I expect to have several hundred blades in the future and years to come. All other brand blades were just as bad as Milwaukee blades. They didn't suggest any improvements. The Morse brand blade was the only excellent blade I could find that worked and cut smoothly and lasted a long time compared to other competitive blades. Does it surprise you that Morse Code blades are made in America? And all the others are rebranded from China. And the best part is that they cost the same as Milwaukee blades. Nice that in this case a much better one costs no more than scrap. Let me advise you professionally. Blades come in different variations with different numbers of teeth per inch. Thin-walled metal should be cut with a blade that has a high number of teeth per inch so that there are always 5-8 teeth in the cut at any one time. As the wall thickness increases, you can use fewer teeth per inch because you still have a lot of teeth in the cut. However, if there are too many teeth in the cut at the same time, the cutting pressure is reduced, thereby reducing the pressure of the blade teeth per square inch when scraping/cutting metal. If there are too many teeth, if too little downward pressure is applied, the teeth will simply slide and cut very little. So choose a blade with fewer teeth per inch so you can maintain enough down pressure for the teeth you use to dig and scrape into the metal. On the other side of the coin, too few teeth in the cut will eventually lead to teeth biting too hard and teeth falling out. Based on the thickness of the wall to be cut, you should therefore choose a saw blade that has enough, but not too few, teeth in contact at all times. This means we need to change blades to stay in the optimal cutting range without damaging the teeth for maximum blade life. Sounds good in theory. In real life things are not that simple. My last cut was thick walled so I use the blade with the fewest teeth per inch. But my next cut is thin-walled and there aren't many cuts, just one. Can blades be changed for just one cut? In my business, time is money. I've found that if I don't let all the weight of the saw push down. If I hold the saw a bit I can cut a thin wall with blades with a few teeth per inch and not break the teeth because they don't pick up too much metal at once. I've come to know so well when to hold the saw down a bit instead of cutting down with full pressure that I rarely change blades these days when I'm switching to thin-walled metal. I use 10-14 tpi blades for everything. But when working with thin-walled metal, I just don't let the saw press too hard on the teeth in the cut, lest the teeth break off. And these morse blades are very forgiving. Pressure that would snap dozens of Milwaukee teeth will almost never snap a Morse MK tooth. But when I have a lot of cuts in thin-walled metal, I take the time to fit an 18-24 tpi blade. But when you have a lot of teeth per inch, it cuts thick-walled metal very slowly. But 95% of my cuts of thick or thin wall have 10-14 teeth per inch and just a different downforce or back pressure depending on the thickness of the wall I'm cutting that time. When I'm cutting solid material 3 inches thick, I'm pushing the saw down with 20 pounds of pressure (plus the saw's own weight) as I cut. If I'm cutting a 1/8 inch thick wall, I'm holding 2/3 the weight of the saw so it doesn't press the teeth too hard into the metal. I'm posting this review because I came back here for my third purchase of these morse blades. Now my opinion is based on testing and experience and as I buy more here again I thought I'd share my hard-earned knowledge with you. Good luck and happy cutting. If you think this review is helpful, let me know.