I spent the better part of a month cleaning and prepping my basement floor with Rust-Oleum Cleaner & Degreaser 301243 and Rust-Oleum Clean & Etch before applying 2 coats of Rust-Oleum 1 gallon. Paint for concrete floors Armor Gray Satin. After painting, each coat was given a week to dry/cure before applying the next coat (2 weeks total). The floor looked great with a smooth finish, not sticky and with no traces of leftover stains or dirt that might be deep in the concrete where the cleaners couldn't reach. I applied an even coat of RUST-OLEUM 320202 Gallon Clear Gloss Coating with a 3/8th Stapling Roller and let it dry for 24 hours. I. The floor is just broken! The surface is still sticky and sticky. Any residue that was trapped deep within the concrete will now be drawn through the 2 coats of floor paint to the surface of the top coat. The gray epoxy has cracked in several places (remember: 2 coats with a week to dry in between and another week to dry before adding clear coat). The shiny surface could be wiped off with a finger at this point. Before purchasing the top coat, I checked the Rust-Oleum website to see if the products were compatible. For the price of the top cover, that's totally unacceptable. I'll give it the rest of the week to heal and hopefully the sticky surface will go away. Although my past experience with Rust-Oleum enamel tells me not to get my hopes up. This is incredibly frustrating as so far I've been very happy with the other Rust-Oleum products I've used on this project. The floor paints and prep materials listed above gave excellent results up to the point of applying the clear coat. I was so impressed with the first floor paint tests that I even used Zinsser WaterTite paint on concrete walls (also a Rust-Oleum product). I'm not sure if I need to sand the entire surface or if I can recoat the transparent one, but I need to do something else. Huge waste of time because of this bad product.
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