This is a heating coil that current flows through to generate heat. Many reviews say it burns out and roasts instantly. This happens when you let the metal coil touch either the circuit board or another part of it (the connecting wires going to the connector). Imagine that the two ends of the dough are connected by a wire. Do not do that. As long as you make sure none of them are touching the core or any other part of the loop, fold it back so none of them are touching, this product is perfect. Also check your positive/negative leads, which will screw into the side of the case so these wires don't cross each other when you're done. I had no problem bending the wires a bit to keep the separation. So far I've installed this on 2 different models and the results have been the same: it had a slight odor the first time, but I suspect it was some sort of spent cleaning/fabrication materials and after that it was odorless. Depending on your dryer, getting to the casing to swap it out can be quite an ordeal. Still, you can do it with just a few simple tools in a tight and confined space (I speak from experience) and make a broken dry block like new again with a little effort. I've had one for a few months and the other for almost a year. So far no problems, no worries and no regrets. However, I reused existing thermostats and sensors. I kept them off these sets for safety reasons, but the factory blocks turned out to be stronger and better constructed. I would recommend this to anyone who is a bit crafty with a few tools and needs this repair. Look at the model number and board you need, NOT all are universal. Also, each dryer opens slightly differently, although the two I made were very similar inside, despite having completely different control panels. Reduce the risk of fire with dry lint and ensure vents are not clogged with lint. This product and the dryer in general depend on the airflow inside the dryer block.
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