When I bought the Norcold I couldn't decide between it and the 50 liter ARB fridge. They seem fairly comparable, but the Norcold model is cheaper. As a result, despite some shortcomings, I settled on the Norcold block. Pros: Cools down fairly quickly, nice and quiet (similar to ARB). in the back of my SUV (Toyota Sequoia). The ARB cover opened sideways, meaning it was too high to open in the car. The lid folds down easily so you can reach it from the car during a long drive and then fold the lid down without turning the whole thing upside down. the fridge is about 180 degrees, which is good because the thing can get very heavy when loaded. This fridge only draws 6 amps to run the compressor (according to the documentation) so you can plug it into any power socket in your car. . The ARB manual states that a 15 amp fuse is required and many automotive power outlets are left unplugged to meet ARB power requirements. Of course, the port on the back of my Sequoia was only rated for 120 watts (10 amps) and would not run with the ARB. I like the simple on/off switch. The ARB switch requires you to hold down the button. - It's slightly larger than the ARB but still fits behind my 3rd row seat. - There is a good clearance between the handle and the body of the attachment device. Strap is there if you want to tie it down. The Bad: - This is NOT an AC/DC fridge - it only runs on DC power! This appears to be a total misrepresentation of the facts. The ARB can be plugged into a wall or car and is truly an AC/DC refrigerator. With Norcold, you have to use a large wall adapter to convert your home's 120 volt AC to 12 or 24 volt DC for the fridge, which will cost you another $70. Also, you have one more awkward thing to keep an eye on and possibly lose. The ARB comes with a standard power cord that you can buy cheaply at any hardware store in case you lose (or forget) it. There's only one temperature setting, so it can be either a fridge or a freezer, but not both at the same time (like ARB) - The power requirements are bizarre! When I plug it into an outlet on the back of my SUV, it works great with the engine running. But when the engine is off, the refrigerator compressor will not start. This was difficult to diagnose as the fridge always waits 2 minutes before even trying to start the compressor. After a two minute delay I felt it vibrate as I tried to start the compressor and then displayed an error code related to fan speed!? I don't have the same problem when I plug it in from the front, so maybe the Toyota just has a fairly thin cord going to the outlet on the back of the car. However, it was better than an ARB that didn't move at all from behind (with or without the motor) - the power cord sticks straight out to the side (instead of being bent at a 90 degree angle). It looks like a weak design. The ARB had the power cord at a 90 degree angle, which makes more sense. The lid hinge looks rather flimsy, it's just a few plastic beads holding the plastic slot. We'll have to wait and see how it holds up. Thetford (norcold.com) won't let you order parts or even download a PDF manual if you're not a dealer! BU! tips. You might want to buy a separate extra battery to power this thing when camping so you don't have to leave your keys in the car. I can't decide between Arkpak or any of the Goal Zero products.
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