The panel itself is well designed and made of aluminum. Personally I think it looks great and it is mounted on a quality yoke system that can be mounted both vertically and horizontally which helps with the barn door clearance in the event of a roll over. And it's great that you get barn doors! You also get two diffusion plates. Primary, which serves as a protective layer for diodes. And then a second, larger one, which you attach with the included brackets, which move it a few inches away from the panel for a softer look. I personally like that it was included, but can't imagine using that second diffuser. Panels too often as it doesn't greatly improve softness and isn't compatible with barn doors. You can only use one at a time, and I think barn doors are probably more useful in the long run. Light emanates from the seams, and since the barn doors aren't felt, they also reflect some light, which undermines their design a bit. And because it's a wide beam panel and not speckled COB or Fresnel, you can't create fancy shapes or light lines with the barn doors or give Morticia Adams the look. It will always be some kind of glowing ball of light regardless of the position of the barn doors. So for this panel, they're really just for leak protection. The panel supports 2 Sony NP-F batteries, which are NOT included, but comes with a DC power supply consisting of two segments. I have two complaints about the PSU, firstly I would like the panel segment to be longer. I find that the cable should always be long enough so that when the lamp is fully up on the stand, the brick can still rest well on the ground. But that's happening at just under 4 feet away, so it's hanging around all the time, and it can't be good for a connection. Having said that, I have to say that the connector is very solid and cleverly placed at right angles, helping to compensate for the dangling adapter. My other issue with the PSU was how the longer wall segment was packaged. It was rolled up and then folded and packed in a box. This kinked the cable, making it difficult to reach the intended length, and it stressed the connections and actually bent one of the connectors. I had to bend it with pliers to use the light. I believe the purpose was to create a nice symmetrical package that was beautifully designed and they did a great job of that. It was probably one of the most stylish light packs I've ever opened, but I don't like the sacrifices the power cord makes to achieve this look. The aluminum housing offers effective passive cooling, so the panel never overheats. and it doesn't need fan, so it's always silent. It's well built, durable and comes with a high quality LCD display. There are two knobs: one adjusts the brightness, it feels nice and responsive but doesn't really match the instructions printed on the panel. It doesn't matter since you're still using the LCD screen to determine the brightness settings, but it's just an interesting feature. The big problem I have with the brightness is that it only changes in 5% increments and the first jump from 0 to 5% is pretty extreme. I want it to be from 0 to 100% in 1% increments. Another slider controls three attributes. Temperature, if you are in two-color mode, then you can press it to go to hue to choose color for RGB mode, and press it again to go to saturation to change hue intensity. you just voted But one problem I've encountered is that turning the light on and off keeps reverting the mode back to two tone. Light claims to have a CRI and TLCI of 97+, but that only seems to be true at 5600K from my testing. . Two-color mode uses a different white light than RGB mode. Therefore, when using RGB, there is a serious color shift even if the saturation is reduced to 0%. At 5600K the light works reasonably well but I found it a bit warmer than advertised. For me it was closer to 5300K but it's not that bad, I would definitely use that setting. However, and this is a big one, once you drop the temperature to the next temperature, which is 5500K, the jump is huge. It's hovering at least 500 Kelvin and far from 5500K. My readings place it much closer to 4800-4900K. Once you get to 5500 it's pretty smooth up to 2100K but then there's another big jump from 2100 to 2000K as the white diodes turn off completely. Temperature. It's not quite the tungsten equivalent you're used to, it's much more iridescent. So I would probably only use this light at 5600K if I were aiming for precision and ignoring the rest of the duotone range. It sounds like a huge scam but some of the tubes I currently use can only do 5600K and I have to use CTO if I want to heat them up so it doesn't matter to me. But I would definitely respect the panel's performance more if they didn't have these issues. RGB is great! Very bright and even. The Hue Picker uses a 360d mode (similar to Photoshop) so it toggles from red to all colors and then back to red. It's not the type where you pick the power of red, green and blue like you would with computer lighting. You mix this selection with saturation and lightness to get the right tone. The resulting color is very rich, stronger than what you can usually create with a gel, and obviously a lot easier. And while barn doors aren't very good at shaping light due to the design of the panel, and diffusion possibilities are limited, these aspects don't really interfere with using the RGB component of the light. I find the way it brings out color very pleasing, especially if you're using it as an accent or lighting a background, and it has just enough intensity to be useful for artistic effects. And this is where this panel really shines, because nowadays when it comes to bringing RGB into an LED panel, I don't think there is a better value for money.
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