
I have three 1993 Cat Eye Velo 2 models that still work like new, so I have a lot of faith in wired Cat Eye bikes. They do not contain redundant information that it is absolutely impossible to have an accuracy value for every model regardless of the cost. You give the information I want and no more. Fewer features mean easier setup and re-setup when the battery dies. I'm sticking with the simplest wired model for a couple of reasons. First of all, only one battery has to be replaced, which should last more than three years when plugged in, before you have to change it and reset everything again. Expect less than a third of that battery life with a wireless device. I find it funny that people actually buy models thinking they're getting features like Fat Burn or Calories Burned. Specify a certain precision for each of these functions. The following must be factored into the equation to get approximately accurate readings of calories or fat burned. Do you ride a heavy rattler or a lightweight, high-performance bike? The instrument cannot tell. Are you riding on flat terrain, or are you going uphill hard, or are you just going downhill? The device cannot detect. Are you riding against or behind the wind and at what speed? The device cannot detect. are taken into account by the bike computer regardless of the price. These are just a few things that come to mind and hopefully if you have normal brain function you will realize that any cycle computer that claims to provide information about calories burned or fat burned cannot be. In short, NO ONE can do it, but many claim to have these features at a premium price. I'm sure manufacturers understand that it's not possible to collect such data just by counting wheel revolutions per second or minute, but advertise these features as a publicity stunt. Don't fall for it. It's just not possible, and all you really get for the extra cash is useless false readings, shorter battery life, and an overly complicated device at a higher price point. When all you want is your current speed, average speed, trip distance, total distance and hours is the ONLY thing you need. You might think that wireless is a little easier to set up, and to an extent it is, but it's also more prone to inaccurate readings, and the distance between the sensor and magnet is very important to any wireless accuracy. The distance you can have between the sensor and the spoke magnet and still get accurate readings is twice that of a wireless device. I'd rather spend a few more minutes running around tying a wire than encountering inaccuracies, poor battery life, and two batteries to replace. It's just one of those "less is more" elements, and based on my experience with previous models, you can rest assured that this model will outlive your bike. I've already made the mistake of trying a different brand. That's not a mistake I'll make again.

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