Note: Having worked with Eternabond a bit, I find it extremely useful. I'm making a bunch of mistakes in my app below. Here I'm applying too many, too many coats and I'm not using Eternaprime which is proving very useful for priming the surface. Here's what I do with Eternabond. My disclaimer is that I've only watched a few YouTube videos and the official Eternabond video and otherwise have no experience doing RV repairs. But I recently bought a 1999 Northwood Nash trailer and although it has a rubber roof in very excellent condition and appears to have hardly been used and has mostly been stored indoors and also looks well built by Northwood Manufacturing I can still tell it is a one Dach from 1999 and will expire relatively soon in some places. There are no signs of current or past leaks, but some things are pretty worn so I'm trying to be proactive. I started slow and will update this over time as I think only time will tell if this product works as anything can make a print for a season or so in one photo. In this photo I walked around an old obsolete metal antenna on the roof. From the other picture you can see that the old butyl putty or RV putty or Proflex or whatever was used around this antenna is totally outdated and actually peeled off instantly when touched, exposing this case to that ridiculous metal TV antenna. Not ideal for Eternabond because everyone says you should only use Eternabond on "flat" surfaces, but turns out there really are no flat surfaces. Also, Eternabond has instructions on what to do around corners and when the 'awning' occurs and I will address that as well. Eternabond has a YouTube video of a guy putting the Eternabond on an RV pretty quickly, but one thing he does is he doesn't use the roller he uses with his fingers, so I have my fingers too used to apply pressure to activate the microseal. I found using my fingers to identify, eliminate, or pinch air bubbles with a box cutter if needed was easier. (The guy from Eternabond also uses a box cutter and it makes things a bit easier, although I pre-cut my pieces with sharp scissors.) I ended up using way too much tape, I probably could have used at least half of the tape, but nobody tells you how to use this stuff. I quickly learned that a very sharp and pointed knife is essential for piercing blisters and areas like 90 degree seams. was a spear. The micro-sealing seals itself. It also seemed important to just let it drip down and then apply pressure from the center to the edges after the tape was in place. If I move my fingers while applying pressure, I'll pierce any air bubbles that appear. I don't think of it as applying a duct tape, but rather applying a putty micro sealer with a white duct tape on top. Sealant overlaps but it seems to me that this type of sealant has already been used on my trailer and it is deteriorating and also looks quite difficult to work with. Some other tricky spots looking something like that Dicor sealer again would just be overkill. These things are made like toys. I can't believe the RV industry can get away with this. If houses were like this, people would be put in jail. Also here is my review of how I used this on my fillet welds with pictures: https://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R1MYD6HPXHAQCF?ref_=gimp_1rv_cl
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