Review on Double Flap Endura Flap Pet Door for Walls - Extra Insulated, Cold Weather Dog Door with Aluminum Frame, Telescoping Tunnel, Locking Cover - Available in Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large Sizes - White, Tan, Black Options by Tiffany Ward

This only gets 3 stars because it's so much better than the competition and the support team is very helpful. The installation still leaves a lot to be desired. Here is my experience: Note to others who purchase this product: Open all packages and read every piece of paper in each package before beginning installation. Each package contains additional instructions NOT included in the main guide. When I installed the door for the first time (of three) I was unaware that Loctite was provided to keep the open cylinder threaded connections from loosening when removing the makeshift screws from the threaded rod. Don't skip this step, otherwise it will be problematic to remove the screws (also with this step, but to a lesser extent). First I started by cutting a hole in the wall. The space you are supposed to cut is significantly larger than it should be, so I cut a hole to be smaller (almost 1 inch either way) and then drilled a hole for each of the 4 threaded rods to thread through. Okay The first step when I had trouble was attaching the metal skirt in the tunnel to the inner door. The pre-drilled holes in the material did not line up with the hole in the frame after bending the tabs. on the top/bottom blade, so one of the four screws had to be set at an angle. It seemed to be holding up well, so I just let it go and moved on. Now that the door is fully installed I found that the jamb at the bottom of the inner door wasn't being lifted by the force of the magnets, I wanted to remove the magnet anyway to ease the tension on the door for practice and saw that it could not seal properly due to deformation. B. through the diagonal screw. Now that the door is in place (fully caulked and sealed with silicone) there is nothing that can be done to fix it. I can try cutting some plastic off the jamb if moving the magnets from the center to the edges of the door doesn't matter. This problem could have been avoided entirely if (1) they drilled holes in the metal skirt 1/16 inch further from the bend or if the screw holes went to the edge (about 1/16 inch). 4" clearance between the receiving holes and the skin to allow the screw to be inserted diagonally at first). door, thus connecting the two halves of the door. The first three rods went in with no problem, but the last rod broke the press fitting on the outer door. I thought I could just use a socket wrench along with the hex nut they send in the package, however the holes on the outer frame are too small (less than 1mm) to use regular nuts on the outside, this led to me taped a garbage bag to the door for weather protection on Saturday as I had to wait until Monday to contact customer service Barrel connectors (I suspect they sent two in case the other one came loose) When I got the extra connectors (Wednesday) , I cut an extra 1/2" off the threaded rod to fit the connector. When I went to install the last threaded rod I figured I made a mistake and cut the rod too short. It turned out that the closed end tube connectors would not go through the hole left by the broken compression nut. NOTE TO OTHERS: When you get to the point where you need a closed port cylinder, you will need to use a magnetic screwdriver to install it. Without it, the cylinder connector will not get into the hole left by the broken press fitting. So another call to the service dept, still waiting (a little over 1 week this time to get another threaded rod as they were one) and back. I cut off a new threaded rod and then installed it in the door. Barrel connector, the connector broke through the press hole. The original stem I cut shorter was the correct length, but because the closed end cylinder connector is so short I couldn't fit it into the hole until I a screw was long enough to connect it first and then pull it out. NOTE TO OTHERS: The takeaway from this is that before you cut the extra 1/2" length, thread the closed end connector onto the threaded rod and thread it through the hole left by the broken press fitting. I didn't want water getting under my fairing so I used white caulk on the outside and the silicone gasket that was provided on the inside around the surround. Now finally after about 3 weeks the door is finally installed although as I mentioned the magnetic strip on the inner door is not sealed. Here are my notes to the engineering team behind this product that would help me a lot: 1) Add an extra threaded rod and closed cylinder connector. In original packaging I am including instructions in case of a broken press fitting 2) Lengthen the closed barrel connector The connector is so short that two problems arose: First, when I cut the threaded rod, it was still about 1/16"t is too long which can't be fixed without removing the threaded rod, cutting it off and putting it back on.I figured it was close enough and just left it looser than the other three connectors.The second problem is getting in the hole the the If the plug was longer I could thread it through the hole with my fingers instead of carefully doing it with a magnetic screwdriver, all the while thinking it would eventually fall out and get lost in the frame. 3) Instead of suggestion #2, make the holes around the outer door slightly larger so a broken press fitting can easily be replaced with a socket wrench Standard hex nut can be replaced. Tea at any local hardware store. Without exaggerating, I think the outer holes are about 1mm smaller in diameter to fit a standard socket. 4) Move the holes in the metal plate used to create the tunnel closer to the edges. This avoids issues with the diagonal screws that now prevent the inner jamb from working properly. 5) Expand the screw holes to the left and right edges of the door. I don't understand why there is a gap at all, but that would have prevented the diagonal bolt problem as well.