Review on 🚀 Enhanced MOOG RK640361 Control Arm for Improved Performance and SEO by Vic Alexander

For 2003 Matrix XRS 2ZZ/6MT. Toyota parts are $220 a side at a local dealer, so I'm willing to give the Moog a shot at $100 a pair. Work independently with relatively simple tools. Save shop labor and 100% markup on parts and learn more about your car. I did this job in my driveway and it took about ninety minutes each side. Installation was easy and required no power tools, but did require some effort and patience. Other Matrix/Corolla owners have reported that removing one of the thru-bolts requires removing the transmission mount and lifting the automatic transmission, but my stock transmission left plenty of room. I had to disconnect the knuckle from the strut to fit the new part: when doing this, be sure to unbolt the wheel speed sensor from the knuckle (follow the wire to the knuckle and remove the single bolt, then move the sensor out of the way) and support the knuckle somehow so the brake hose doesn't carry all the weight. I put my knuckles on the jack stands and rolled them forward to make room for the new control arm. You have to start at the rear end of the lever. This requires some wiggling; Once you have it in place, tighten the bolt and nut otherwise it will be harder to start later. Then turn the front end inwards. It also requires some work and I had to tap my arm with a hammer when I started this. Run this thru bolt through, then install the new arm to the lower ball joint and reinstall the knuckle to the strut. Reinstall the wheel speed sensor and tighten everything, then mount the wheels, tighten the lug nuts and *level the car* because you changed all the suspension angles by separating various parts. Minimum tools needed: jack and two jack stands, various ratchet drives, 10mm socket (for wheel speed sensor bolt), 17mm socket (for lower ball joint nuts and bolts), 19mm socket (for crossbar through-bolt, lever) and a 19mm -Wrench (to counteract nut), a 21mm socket (for jam nuts), a 22mm socket (for strut and pivot bolts) and a 22mm wrench (to counteract nuts), a torque wrench with a Range of at least 162 ft/lbs, 30" pry bar for on-site and off-site part use. I used a 3/8" breaker and air ratchet to loosen and remove most of the fasteners - the thru bolts are very long and it was nice to have an air ratchet instead of having to turn the ratchet to tighten it to get. That being said and nuts, I don't think pneumatic or electric tools would make the job any easier. Good lighting is crucial if you work indoors or at night (like me - I spend as much time moving emergency lights as I do wrenches). You're working on your car's steering and suspension and being careless can kill you - just check for yourself and pay attention to the torque figures. Much luck!