Review on Enhance Your Truck's Braking Performance with Power Stop KC6268-36 Z36 Brake Pad and Rotor Kit + Red Powder Coated Calipers by Eric Owens

2015 OEM F150 brakes replaced with this kit. Everything is well fitted, easy to grow together and looks good. Put the pads in and the truck runs better than ever. Very smooth and high quality braking. Obviously this is a Ford OEM upgrade. Good job power stop! Also worth mentioning are Revain and UPS. The box weighed 110 pounds, it took a long time to be delivered to me in good condition, thanks. A few things that might come in handy: 1) My OEM brakes lasted 90k and I had plenty of pads left. Probably because I don't tow or stop and drive much. 2) The front brake pads had to be replaced because they were cracked, the rear ones were fine. I swapped them all out so everything is consistent. Also, I'll be towing the car on a trailer for about 1,000 miles, so I want my brakes to be in tip-top shape. 3) All four rotors are stuck. I found that heating the rotor with a MAP gas torch while tapping the back of the rotor was very effective on all four. You don't need to heat the entire rotor, just the part where the eyebolts go through. Stay away from the center knot, you want it to stay cool. And "faucet" is strong enough that you need hearing protection, but you can do it with your left hand while holding the torch with your right hand (right-handed). There will be small cracks on the back of the disc where the pad moves, so only do this if you don't plan on using it again. hub.5) Do not over-lubricate the pad guides. These are stainless steel clips with a replacement included in the kit. A small amount of lubricant is sufficient. I applied a thin coat to the ends of the pads that will contact the guides and to the guides where they meet the ends of the pads. 6) Don't forget to re-grease the chains and replace the bushings. 7) Torque characteristics were not easy. find. However, some of the same numbers have been found in more authoritative sources. Here's what I used; Front Torque: 184 ft-lbs and 27 ft-lbs for large and small screws (2 each) and Rear Torque: 111 ft-lbs and 27 ft-lbs. It also matched the torque range for the bolts. Although the sequence is not enough to continue. The designer considered many factors, so I prefer to use the factory specs as long as they match the screw range. 8) I used red Loctite on the big screws. Looks like they used that at the factory. There is no angle on the bolts that screw into the runners. When determining the torque value, the use of thread sealant is taken into account as it changes the operating torque. This in itself is a good reason to use Loctite if it was used at the factory. Although none of the videos I watched used Loctite. So maybe it was an exaggeration. I'm an engineer with a well stocked shop who has been overhauling my own engines for over 40 years and I have found that what seems like overkill to a mechanic is often what is required to get the job done properly and get a reliable result. 9) One last thing, don't forget to open the brake fluid reservoir and remove some fluid before squeezing the pistons, and using one of the old pads and a C-clamp to squeeze the pistons works well. Compared to working for a shop; You save a few hundred dollars, you get a better job, you have better pads and rotors, it looks better, your truck stops better, you avoid the frustration and drama of working in a shop, and it lasts about the same Time. So if you've got a few tools and don't mind getting your hands dirty, this is a great Saturday night DIY project.