I have used a separately purchased big sert insert longer than the one in the kit for extra holding power but whether you use the one in the kit or very long the procedure is that same. Follow the instructions carefully. Read it two or three times, do a dry run or two before actually cutting metal, and you'll have a near-perfect repair. Don't try to cut corners. Use a pilot bushing, sold separately, to properly align the threads when repairing the block while the engine is still in the vehicle. Works beautifully when used with proper care and craftsmanship. The engine has now clocked approximately 1,500 miles, including 80 mile outdoor drives, one stop in heavy city traffic and rush hour drives post overhaul. displayed when a previous TimeSert or Helicoil repair has failed, and remember, if you need to refer back to this to fix a blown cylinder head bolt hole in an aluminum block, you have one chance to get it right. However, if done correctly, the result will be like new. It was worth every penny spent. Compared to the cost of a new engine (or any other car) or welding a bad hole, re-drilling and re-tapping at a machine shop, this has saved me thousands of dollars. I recommend this for every other repair where there is enough metal (at least the diameter of the original bolt) surrounding the insert to withstand the full pull force at maximum load at operating temperature.
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