So, disclaimer ahead, my motor is out of stock. I saw a review about adding shims to the bottom of the main hub to raise it and build up oil pressure. Not required on my standard size Big Block Chevrolet (BBC). I've also looked at reviews that said to grind/bevel the end of the tool to better match the oil pump. Again, this is not necessary for my application. I forgot to bevel the end of the tool until it was about 3/4 of the way into the motor to connect to the pump. After 3 seconds I connected it to the pump. My pump is an aftermarket Mellings oil pump so it might have something to do with that. I've reinstalled it several times, same result, works great, easy installation. About the review Pucks added to make it work. There are no problems here. I have a Donovan aluminum block, Mellings oil pump and 1969 Corvette intake on my custom big block engine and it was evident within 5 seconds that the engine oil pressure was increasing with no tooling changes required. The only thing that comes to my mind is that I had to run the Dewalt cordless drill in 3rd gear to build up the necessary pressure for the oil to flow through the "open" valves (my valve springs have about 700 pounds of force). about 3 times more). Stock engine (all other valves flowed freely (I didn't notice oil pressure on the gauge in the car, but from experience more oil flowed with the tool than the car idle (20 psi))))) (yes, this is a quadruple clamp.) . With my cordless drill fully loaded and the valve covers off, the oil leaking from the valve train spilled out so quickly I had to curse it on the back of the heads to keep it from running down the sides of the block. My $20,000 race car engine isn't stock, but it uses a standard platform height and size pump. The tool worked great! I would buy it again because it works. If you need to bevel the edges where it mates with the pump, buy a Dremmel and be glad you bought two good tools. Worth every penny. happy race
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