Review on Enhanced Flexibility & Stability with Adjustable Clamp Co 9166 CORNER by Bill Forbis

I originally got a set of 4 of these clips because my wife wanted to make some frames. It was many years ago. After the frames were made, the clamps were boxed up, stored and forgotten. Still, they looked a little, well, flimsy and below my carpentry standards. The Kreg Pocket Hole device changed that. When making quick boxes and crates, using two of these clips to secure each 90 degree pocket hole connection simplifies construction. Clamp placement requires some practice: look for a mark on the clamping surface to minimize parallax, clamp lightly, tap to adjust, clamp firmly. These simple clips are good because they are small and not in a certain way and leave enough space to attach screws. They are much easier to assemble than other corner clamps like the Bessey WS3 or the Rockler corner clamp system. They help to make square connections. They don't damage the wood. It's important to understand that while they hold the bond, they don't put pressure on the glue line. They hold some pressure on the glue line when the pressure is applied through separate bar clamps and then that clamp is tightened. Weaknesses are linked to strengths. The clamp is light and small, but that means it's not very strong. I use two clamps for each connection if there is space. cast clamp body. Be careful when splicing very long, heavy boards as the weight of the boards combined with the tremendous leverage can damage the body of the clamp. (For example, 6 foot long 2 by 8 boards.) The screw has a standard thread, such as a 1/4 inch diameter screw. This makes it difficult to tighten and loosen the clamp once tightened. A tiny spot of grease on a screw can help, but it can also be dirty. The upper thread would be great, but the yoke would be bigger and heavier. The screw tightening lever is also light and can be bent. You're overtightening when you bend the lever, but you can straighten it out. Remember, you're using the clamps as an extra pair of safe hands, not to put pressure on the glue line. Tighten just enough to hold it while placing and screwing the connection. I think the Adjustable Clamp Company could have adapted this design to make the perfect 90 degree stacking hole clamp by removing the corner slot, strategically reinforcing the corner clamp in the base, and replacing the screw steps and finger levers. However, I'm not sure I'll like the result more than this clamp. Update: I've read other reviews after writing this and realized it's important for a buyer to know what it is before they buy it. These are lightweight clips designed for making beveled picture frames. Ledges used in picture frames are usually light and small, and heavy staples easily destroy the wood. They have a light, broad attack. They're like extra hands. They are very different from other woodworking clamps. They are not intended for the sole clamping of adhesive connections. Also, making rectangular frames with beveled edges seems like the easiest task until you do it. Then it will seem pretty difficult until you do ten or more and learn the tricks. Here are some of them: To make a rectangular frame it is best to have 4 of these clips. They don't work for frames that don't have right angles. If the frame is clamped in four of them, make sure all corners are flush before using glue or fasteners. If not, check that the bars are square to each other. With many bar constructions, it is difficult to clamp square bars. Normally the molding will expand at a "spring angle" and no manipulation will cause these clips to work. However, if you measure the spring angle of the molding, you can make small triangular blocks and attach them to the back of the molding with strong double-sided carpet tape. You need 8 identical blocks. This keeps the bar firmly in the clamp and also makes it easier to cut the bevels. Simply use rubbing alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) to remove the tape after the frame is assembled. The second trick is that miter saws are rarely perfect. These clamps have a molded "saw cut". Once the frame is clamped in place, a miter saw (or other miter saw - I like to use a men's saw) with a good set of teeth can be used to cut the miter, only cutting a small amount on each side. Miter. The trimmer guides the saw. After sawing, move the molding to the clamp and check that the joint is flat. If it doesn't, try sawing again. Note, however, that other connections may also need to be adjusted. Once the corners are acceptable, glue and pin or slit each connection. If you don't stick together, consider using tape clamps to tighten the connections to strengthen them while the glue cures. (The bolt is basically a thin nail driven deep into the back of the frame to make it invisible.) And one last trick. You might be tempted to create a couple of the same frames for, say, a standard sized photo. In this case, make a permanent framing template out of a very flat piece of plywood or MDF that is at least 3/4 inch thick and about 2 inches wider and taller than the size of the finished mat or picture. Assemble the frame and align the corners perfectly. Place the frame with clips on the plywood and attach the clips with 2 screws per clip. Screw holes are conveniently provided in the clamp body. You need to buy 4 clamps for each mount because the clamps will not stay straight when moving.