Love these plugs and cords. The wires look like 22 gauge wire. Red is positive, black is negative. But honestly, while this is a common color code, you don't have to follow it as long as you keep track of which is which when you plug it in. You may need to swap two wires when replacing existing mini-JST connectors for correct polarity. To swap them out, you'll need a tiny flat-blade jeweler's screwdriver, or what I use, a toothpick. You will slightly pry the plastic tab holding the end of the wire and pull it out. When you put them back in the correct slot, just make sure they hook back into the little plastic tabs to hold them in place. sure that they are not easily separated from each other. Again, if you want to remove two links, use a tiny tool to get into the gap between the tabs and holes, and then you can gently pry them apart. I use these connectors for 3D printer hot end connections. Many hot ends are soldered or permanently attached directly to the motherboard, requiring long cables and lengthy installation. I connect a female connector to the wiring back to the motherboard and a male connector to a cartridge heater, thermistor, or LED, and then I can replace parts that are prone to failure without having to reroute the wires from hot end to end. motherboard. Provides quick troubleshooting and simplifies part replacement without the need to replace long, often bundled, cables. The quality cannot be compared to anything else. A mini JST is very similar to the others, but I like the small locking mechanisms, meaning they won't fall apart with a little tug at each end. And I've also used them to connect low-drain batteries that you're not using. I don't want the plugs to come loose. They offer great value for money, saving you the labor and expense of buying crimping tools and cables and the tedious task of crimping ferrules onto wires and inserting those ferrules into connectors. I've tested all 10 (5 male, 5 female) and they all make good contact with opposite connectors and behave correctly. The only downside is that if you'd rather pull them apart without tools, you can use full-size JSTs with clips instead of the tiny tabs that hold them together. You also need to make sure these wires don't get kinked back and forth at the ends of the connector as they are stranded and will break if the connectors are bent enough times. The spade lugs are very difficult to remove from the connectors without a wire attached to tension the spade lugs. Also note that they are not designed for high current connections. They are essentially 22 gauge wires and no more current should be applied to the terminals than the short 22 gauge wire can handle. And these wires are short, about 3 inches or 80mm long. They have pre-tinned spade lugs on the unmated ends that can be soldered or crimped to a circuit board, battery or similar. It was exactly what I needed for my 3D printer. and will probably order more as I've already used 4 out of the 5 pairs I have. I really recommend them as long as you keep the amperage down.