I'm changing the engine on my 1990 Chevy K2500 350 5.7L and had to replace the exhaust from the engine to the muffler...replaced the rest not long ago. I was hoping it would be easy to convert a 3" ID to a 3" OD and I was wrong. The Walker 15034 converter I installed had a 3" ID on both ends, which was fine for the exhaust pipe from the header, but the result was my Dynomax 42606 link pipe slipping into the converter, not the other way around... the connection pipe had to make up for the difference with a shorter transducer length than before. I tried a 3" SmartParts 300300 splice on the outlet side of the Walker, but the pipe was thick and wouldn't work, so I cut the 5" pipe to use as a nipple. added some Permatex 80335 sealant. connected the pipes end-to-end; Then put the clamp back in and everything is fine. I had to cut four slots in the converter and use compression tape on the motor side. I used a SmartParts 320300 3" lap joint but on an extension pipe to the muffler and it was easy. This was my first time using this type of clamp and it was a mistake not trying it sooner. I couldn't remove the old transducer from the Walker 44461 extension tube so I ended up having to cut it off and was pissed I replaced it because I couldn't get the new tube deep enough to prevent a leak...the old clamp made a groove on the top that kept the tube from going all the way in. The good news is that if I ever have to take it apart, connectors that don't deform the tubes will make that task easier.Since it's all a headache in the Project was , the review covers everything I've used. Everything was a quality product, for everything I have to put a 5. However, not all clamps fit 3" ID tubes like my converter, esp Special clamps from SmartParts, but Dynomax 35794 3" clamps are perfect. I cut slits in the tube to give better compression but a little torque would have worked but could have resulted in the tube being bent and difficult or impossible to remove if needed. Welding is out of the question for me.
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