ATTENTION TO ALL BUYERS: USB outputs are for D50/D50s, another output with round power supply on both Ends for DX3 and I think for A50. It's nowhere in the manual. I plugged the round adapter into my D50's AC input and the D50's display showed "Protect". I checked the fuses in the P50 and they were fine. I've searched the internet as to why the D50 went into protection mode and found nothing. I looked at the back of the P50 and saw that it had 2 different output voltages and that the USB was 5v lower and the round was 15 volts. Basically, the lap can fry your D50s if the protection circuit fails. Lucky for me he did his job and didn't fry my D50. With that in mind I bought a P50 to run my D50 which is on my second system. I use Topping D90MQA on my main system and it's fantastic. I don't really listen to my second system, but I decided to see if there were any improvements in the P50. In short, yes. Sometimes D50s have a certain harshness, meaning they're difficult to hear for long periods of time. With the P50 powering up, images moved more out of focus, I suspect this was due to lower noise, quieter and blacker backgrounds. My system has sufficient resolution and is still expensive, so the P50 might not be able to get the job done with a simpler system. I would say if you have a relatively high end system the P50 is a decent value for a dollar upgrade. Finally, as a guide, I used an old Apple power adapter instead of a cheaper wall adapter. Still, there was a good improvement. There's a good video on Youtube where a person suggests that an Apple Power adapter will give you about an 80% improvement over a regular wall wart, with the P50 giving you an extra 20%. I tend to agree with his conclusion. So you get 80% if you use or find an Apple adapter for around $10-$20 or $120 for a P50. Depending on your budget, both will cost you.
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