Review on High-Quality American Standard Tank to Bowl Coupling Kit - Model 7301021-0070A by Ted Higdem

I have an American Standard Cadet 3 toilet that has been slowly losing water between flushes for about a month. The water level drops about an inch and then fills up again. Since there was no water on the floor, I figured it must be the drain valve gasket. I checked Home Depot and Lowes and couldn't find the right parts. I found a matching purge valve assembly at Revain. Since the tank has to be removed to replace the flush valve, I also had to purchase a tank to bowl connection kit. US Standard 738921-100.0070A 3 inch Flush Valve Assembly US Standard 7301021-0070A Reservoir Tank Connection Kit Total cost for both parts together was about $20. Both parts were delivered quickly. The flush valve didn't come with instructions (I like instructions). Instructions were included with the kit. I checked YouTube and found a few videos but none that matched. >> Here's what I did to replace the purge assembly. 1) Water turned off. 2) Flushed to remove most of the water from the tank. 3) Use a rag to remove the remaining water from the tank. 4) I unhooked the water supply where it connects to the tank. 5) Used the tool that came with the coupler (looks like a metal tube). I used it to unscrew the tank from the bowl. One end of the pipe looks like the end of a socket. He just puts a bolt on a nut. It has a hole in the tube that you can stick a screwdriver through for a bigger lever. I was able to just loosen the screw by hand. I didn't have to use a screwdriver to hold the screw in the tank, but I could see where some people might need it. I unscrewed the nuts on each side of the bottom of the tank. 6) Then I lifted the tank off the bowl and laid it on its side on the mat on the counter. . After I did that, they pushed through the holes slightly. 8) I was able to manually unscrew the large plastic nut that attached the drain valve to the tank. 9) I removed the old drain valve. 10) I then cleaned the area where the drain valve and bolts go through the bottom of the tank. I also cleaned where the flush valve is on the back of the bowl. 11) I then removed the plastic nut from the new purge valve leaving the gasket on the valve. I stuck the valve through the hole in the bottom of the tank. (The gasket is between the bottom of the tank and the bottom of the flush valve.) I then attached the plastic nut. I positioned the purge valve the way I wanted it in the tank. Then I hand tightened the nut. I didn't have anything big enough to bypass the nut, so I used the handle of the large tongs. The grips were rubber and I only used them to tighten them half a turn. Basically, since everything is plastic, you don't want to over-tighten anything. 12) I then took 2 rubber inserts with black screws and put them through the screw holes inside the tank on the bottom. Then from inside the tank I pushed the bolts through the rubber inserts. Note. You must insert the inserts into the tank before inserting the bolts into them. 13) I then place a large green hard rubber gasket/seat over the large white purge valve nut. The inside of the gasket has the same shape as the large nut. It should fit snugly against the mother. 14) Then I placed the reservoir in the bowl. After placing the tank on the bowl, I made sure my bolts and rubber inserts, as well as the green flush valve gasket, fit into the appropriate holes on the back of the bowl. tank and hand tighten it 16) Next I screwed the nuts onto the bolts that attach the tank to the bowl. I then used the included tool (metal tube) to tighten them by hand. I used a level to make sure the tank was level enough. The tank sits on rubber pads, not directly on the basin. This means that once tightened, the nuts will give a little more when you push on the tank. Overtightening can damage your tank. 17) I attached the valve chain to the tank flush handle. 18) I turned on the water and checked for leaks. If you purchase both items (see above), changing the valve purge is a relatively easy process. Everything in these two kits was exactly the same as the original factory parts that came with the Cadet 3. Both kits came in packaging that looked like genuine "American Standard" parts. I didn't really have to use any tools. Everything was manually unscrewed and tightened. You can cause a lot of problems if you use tools and overtighten. Tighten by hand, then check for leaks. The entire process took less than 30 minutes. I am happy with my purchase. The downside is that I haven't completely solved my problem. I still seem to be losing some water. Since there is no obvious leak, the only two places water can seep are through the slide or the gasket under the flush valve. If this continues I may need to remove the tank and try tightening the flush valves with the big white nut.