I don't know how many times I thought the battery was bad only to take it out, charge it all day with a 2A charger and having problems solved. But I haven't really had the chance to know if the CCA is the same as if it were new, and that's more important in cold climates. Not only is it difficult to get hold of a battery but battery prices are now so high they are going crazy. FWIW, Costco has the best battery prices (by far - who knows if that will hold up). A battery with a 3-year warranty costs about $100. (You can get it cheaper at Walmart, but it's more of a one-year warranty. I can't tell you how stupid most techs at Walmart are. The last time I bought a battery there, I called ahead to arrange it If there was a wait there wasn't and when I got there there were 2 oil change cars in front of me, 3 hours later the battery still hadn't been put in. It was for a car we wanted to get rid of finally got my help putting it in the battery. He was nervous about touching the terminals and backed away when I was scared. Then he didn't tighten the nuts on the terminals and the car wouldn't start. I forced him to tighten them and everything was fine That battery going bad was probably a pretty annoying experience when it was unnecessary.) But it's still a hundred bucks, a trip to Costco/anywhere to pull the battery if you do it yourself like I did (resp up all day waiting for someone else to do it for you) and then another trip back with the return of the core. I found and installed a booster battery for my car at Costco without knowing for sure if the old battery was bad. The car sits a lot and I have to jump it, plus it had a battery for 5 years. I took an old battery, charged it slowly and then tested it with it. In the end it was good. I just leave it as a backup, but I never had to spend that $100 plus core charge plus a trip to Costco, plus I pulled the old battery out, installed a new one, etc. Sorry to keep my lists going. The application works fine. , it's a simple app and not complicated. To do this, you need to know what the original CCA was and measure health against that number. I was disappointed - although that's my fault - that this doesn't necessarily detect the battery condition on a battery where you don't know/don't know CCA - like a lithium battery or a small SLA battery. But CCA is easy to find on a car battery, and if it's not on the battery itself, just do a search with other information and find out. Alternatively, you can just look at the OEM specs for the factory installed battery and see if you're within reach.
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