Earned 4 stars because the hex was 1) a bit flat and 2) soft (no heat treatment). When attempting to apply torque, the metal in the hex head of the screw began to separate. The original hitter (1999 Chevy Suburban) used Torx 25 and I would prefer this replacement to require the same tool. However, the striker solved most of my door rattle issues. Remember that the threaded plate inside the door jamb CANNOT be WELDED or permanently attached to the door frame if you need to replace the striker bolt(s). In my case I had to pull out the internal threaded plate with a magnetic feeler gauge and then hold it until I screwed in a new locking bolt. Test yours by partially unscrewing the old screw about 1/4 inch and see if you can get it in. If there is movement you can open the inside of the brace (to see the door access hole or body frame) and hold the inside panel while you remove the old and replace the new striker pin.
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