Review on Arashi(Version 2 by Fritz Marrero

I just installed the rear seats on the Arashi 2.0. Quick measurements: They're about 30mm higher and 70mm further back than the stock when using the foremost and tallest holes. All rear hole options should be used with holes aligned vertically, not diagonally, which is very unfortunate as it would greatly increase the height options and ease my installation by avoiding spacing issues. This means that even in the rearmost position, they are only 30mm higher than stock and about 85mm further back. The 70mm rearward shift was already a bunch and I'd happily compromise for more headroom. If there was a height advantage to push them further back I probably would have, otherwise it wouldn't make much sense. It was a lot of work to get everything just the way I like it. for low shift lever height. The shift rod and knuckle at the end of the shifter interfere with the stud mount. What really annoyed me was that if one of the mount's mounting holes could be used diagonally, for example, first mount the back into any variation of the bottom hole and tilt it forward toward the top hole, rather than the hole pointing straight up. This would allow the pin strut to be angled so that there were no gap issues. The rear bracket is cut at an angle at this problematic point, so it's obvious that they're somewhat aware of the problem, but that's not enough. I ended up sanding the caliper and knuckle with my rotary tool. The contact is still there, but it doesn't seem to be a problem. The "plus" to my preference for a downshifter is that the heel counter does set up nicely compared to the opposite side of the mount since the ankle doesn't hit it, but that's not a big deal. The second issue already mentioned in this thread is that the shift rod is about 20mm longer when using the front holes (at least in GP shifting). Additional length can be used if rear holes are used. By using a rotary tool to snip a bit of thread from each end of the shifter rod, I sorted it out. It's still about 10mm longer on my configuration, based on a theoretical ideal right angle to the pinion shaft. On the braking side, the master cylinder can be maneuvered without changing the ABS brake line. You need some slack in the brake derailleur cable, but that's not a problem. After a ridiculous amount of fiddling to get the brake light to work properly (using those front highest holes), I rotated their brake switch mount 180 degrees to the highest point. Although not part of their design intent as the switch now interferes somewhat with the master cylinder, the thrust angle is now normal and works 100% reliably. So glad but much grumbling to get there. The problem was that their default position interfered with the rear mount, so the brake switch was pointing diagonally backwards while the brake pedal was at a terrible angle to try and pull with a very limited range of motion. With a set lead, it was hopeless. If you're using the rear mounting holes, this probably won't be a problem. Somehow, meanwhile, on the hundredth screwing of the bolt holder, several sparks flew over the bolt. I had the key on when I tried to apply the rear brake to turn on the brake light, but everything around the brake switch looked isolated. Anyway, the brake light fuse blew. Good that there is a spare fuse. I can only assume that my profuse sweat ran a little along the brake light switch shaft. Somehow the switching seems to be improved. I moved the shifter back a bit instead of to the end of the shifter, which certainly gives a shorter stroke. Feelings are very uncomfortable. Now that the footpegs are so far back I have noticed that the heels of my boots get a little dirty on the rear seat footpegs so the rear seat footpeg brackets will have to be removed. It's okay because I almost never had a back seat. The rear exhaust hanger pin mount will have to stay until I can find another muffler hanger. Also the red brake lever height shim needs to be removed as the brake lever is very low even in the highest position. When it is removed, the lever can be raised higher, but will securely lock the mounting screw. It doesn't matter because I don't plan on deleting it. Another thing I noticed is that the Arashi heel guard is less of a heel guard and more of a toe guard. The shifter side isn't a huge issue, but I took a cue from Woodcraft's book and used the standard heel guard on the brake side as it effectively prevents my heel from climbing over the rear master cylinder. Aesthetics can take a back seat. The Arashi heel counter looks like a strain on the boot overall but hasn't been a problem so far. Probably not helped by the exposed and worn metal screws holding the removable sole in my Sidi boots. The assembly work was worth it. As with any backset, loctite everything.