They are well made and the description is correct but I bought them to use on knife handles as they should be. The problem is when you make knives from 1/4 inch stock you have to struggle to get standard scales that fit and still turn screws. I can't even get my hands on more than two standard gauge bag/holster leathers, one on each side, and I usually take two or more to find the right fit for my hand, and I'm not a big guy. A total of 6,160 feet and it all adds up to grips that just aren't thick enough to be really comfortable. Now if you want to use thinner blades than 1/4 inch, for example use 3/16 inch or even 1/8 inch then this is probably more than enough for your need. Another thing I can tell you, don't forget to use a latch when reassembling. Twice they fell apart when grinding the heads as shown in the instructions and they are very difficult to put back together after grinding and you will need a hardening bath as they get so hot they could just burn out They are stainless steel so grab them Grab a bucket of water and have it ready to cook on the go, or you'll end up with a mess and burned fingers if you buy knives and build them yourself, they're probably great for that. I forge my own blades and don't bother with anything thinner than 3/16 for any blade, regardless of size or intended use. I usually aim for 1/4 inch spikes and hand tail toviks. In my opinion they look better and sell better. If they were 1/8 inch longer I would buy more. While I'm looking at 25mm Chicago bolts for now and they fit great, the downside is that you have a bolt head on one side and a rivet head on the other, and that's not perfect either. But at least they're flat and low profile so you can countersink them if you want and the screw head allows for future tightening if they loosen due to lack of retention. Maybe this will help some of you blademasters. Happy forging.
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