Review on 💪 Revitalize Your Victor SR450D Oxygen Regulator: Rebuild & Repair Parts Kit with Diaphragm by Chris Drury

Looks like Victor spares. The o-rings in my old Victor O2 regulator were finally done and it started leaking out of the vents as soon as I opened the tank valve. If you're reading this review, you probably understand what I'm talking about. I removed it from the tank and removed the sensors to clamp it in a vise for disassembly. There are no instructions for this kit so here is the procedure. It took me a lot longer to write this than it did to rebuild my regulator. Remove the regulator from the tank.2. Remove the burner hose from the regulator.3. Remove the LP and HP gauges from the controller. It's easier and they probably still need to be cleaned or replaced.4. Clamp the back of the regulator in a vise firmly enough to hold it in place. Don't crush your regulator! 5. Loosen and remove the T-handle adjustment screw on the front of the regulator.6. Mark the back and front halves of the controller with matching marks so you know where to screw the front when reassembling. The sharpener works perfectly.7. Use a 2" hex socket, 2" and small impact gun to remove the front of the regulator - a pipe wrench will also work, but will gobble up the brass. I don't have a key that opens that far. The gun's percussive action really helps, not just a wrench.8. Remove the cover/front from the controller housing. A coil spring can be included, so be careful with loose parts from now on. 9. Turn the cover over and remove any dirt. You can clean it with soap and water, but not with oil or hydrocarbons. No brake cleaner, oil or grease! It will not end well in an atmosphere of pure oxygen! 10. Take a picture of the alignment of the spring seat, coil spring, diaphragm, valve, valve seat, etc. Always take a picture of this each time you tear off a part. There's only one right way to build it, but there are countless ways to screw it up. 11. After disassembling, blow out the regulator with compressed air. Washing with soap and water is also possible, but again NO OILS, FATS OR OTHER HYDROCARBONS!12. Install the new clear valve seat into the regulator body - making sure the old one is removed first.13. Install a new white split ring onto the valve stem, then install the valve stem into the regulator body.14. Install a new membrane on the cup. Refer to your pictures for correct orientation of these parts.15. Install a new body o-ring into the groove. It's tempting to use some lube to keep it in place, but you could die if you do. I wouldn't.16. Place the membrane on the regulator body. Now it's time to make sure you don't have any "extra" new or old parts. If you do, it's time to review your photos a little longer.17. Place the coil spring and cup on the membrane.18. Slowly place the regulator face back on your body. Slowly twist it to the left (yes, to the left) until you feel the starting strands slipping off each other. You can then turn it to the right without twisting it. 19. Draw your face up as much as possible with your hand. You should have 1/4 to 1/2 full turn for the tools to finish the job. Use the tension tools until the alignment marks match again. Do not overtighten the brass threads or you will need a whole new regulator if they are damaged.20. Reattach the gauges with Teflon tape on the threads. 21. Install the T-handle. You will feel an increase in resistance as it touches the diaphragm. Then stop spinning it. 22. Install the regulator on the tank and reconnect the torch hose. These connections should not require Teflon tape.23. Open the tank valve a quarter turn or just enough to know it is open. Allow pressure to ramp up to GO pressure and stabilize on tank pressure. Then slowly close the tank valve. The pressure gauge should read the same if you don't have any leaks. 24. Spray Windex regulator or soapy water to find leaks. The bubbles will tell you where the problems are.25. After repairing leaks on the high pressure/tank side, reopen the tank valve a quarter turn. Now turn the T-handle clockwise in 1/2 turn increments until you see the pressure on the low pressure gauge reaches 20psi. Press the torch oxygen button a few times to ensure O2 is returned to the torch. 26. Close the tank valve. Record the pressure reading and let it sit for 10 minutes or more. If the readings do not change, then everything is fine. If it falls off, locate and repair the leaks. Readings should not increase.27. At the end of the day, note the readings on the LP and HP gauges. Close the cylinder valve and check the pressure gauge the next morning. If both are the same, you're good to go. If one or both are lower the next day, you need to find the leak and fix it or