As you can see from my photos these bikes are mounted as high and close together as possible for clearance reasons. I turned the outside pedals in (or removed them entirely) for extra clearance when overtaking to reduce snagging! πNow directly to the assembly of the pedal. I used 3 screws (included) on a wooden stud for strength. I used the included screws in the drywall anchors on the lower wheel mounts as they don't carry much weight and work great here. Center 3rd hole, found it did NOT match the screw so I had to open it up a bit with a dremel tool. ODD Gootus took the time to make this slot for aesthetic reasons, but not for the screw to go through the slot - why? fix it! NOTE -> If you need to use ANKER to fix the pedal, I strongly recommend that you buy others, such as B. - (EZ-Anchor Drywall Toggle Anchor or Toggler Anchor) - for Drywall/Drywall. The rotation in the provided version works, but not nearly as much as the two above! After all, most of the time you awkwardly mount your bike repeatedly to a single pedal mount and want long-term stability and not the ability to fall on it...? and if that means finding a competent installer to do it because you've never used a stud finder, just think of all the trouble you cause yourself when there's a crack in the wall, the bike from a fall gets damaged, the car it falls on gets damaged, or if it falls off an injured family member (since some people mount bikes indoors these days, which is the norm!) Some reviewers have complained about their pedals not fitting into the mount fit, which is possible, as there are quite bulky pedals, mainly children's bikes. Unless you plan to switch pedals like many avid riders do, have you tested this fit BEFORE installing the mount? And the mount is rated at 150 pounds. If your bike is over 70lbs (very rare) I doubt it would be advisable to use this type of mount unless it's just for show! This is my RH-Tx value of 0.02.
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