Review on 🔋 Cardone 53-2727 Remanufactured Vacuum Power Brake Booster - No Master Cylinder Included by Dustin Woodrow

Media could not be loaded. DIY occupies an intermediate position in complexity. About 1-2 hours work for a typical shade tree mechanic. Operation is reliable, but the noise is more noticeable on cooler mornings (sometimes you can hear your bladder filling or emptying when you first step on the pedal, but once that's done, operation is normal). I haven't noticed anything similar in sound to the original OEM part. For reference, I changed this booster at 240,000 miles. As mentioned, it's bolted perfectly BUT it's quite difficult to get at it in the cabin and engine bay. From the outside you need to loosen the master cylinder and move it forward about 3 inches (easier said than done as there are hard brake lines restricting the MC's movement), lots of vacuum lines and sensors along the way. Just tag them and their pairings. with a smudge pen and take notes or photos along the way. Inside only concern yourself with the brake pedal linkage (a spring and pin) This and tight quarters to get to the top 2 bolts, outside TIPS: 1. Measure and copy/copy the length of the original/replacement linkage so that the new part fits well with brake pedal pin after installation. Be careful with the gasket between the booster and the master cylinder. I would recommend replacing them immediately and re-bleeding the system, but carefully. -ers, document the disassembly of the parts (which, for that matter, is good practice for some of the techs I've encountered).